Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
«
Lots of people get off route on Astro Elephant looking for the traverse. From the tree on the ledge atop guidebook pitch 4, follow the green line to stay on route. Start traversing and belay at the first green circle after the 5.8 chimney. MAKE SURE you don't go up above this. There are two easy starts going pretty much straight up (red x's in pic). If you go up you will be in 11R territory (or go get an FA!, mabye). Instead, move the belay left about 50 - 75'. Then go up following the green line. If you are on-route, there is a two handed super jug hueco to start off this pitch. Do a face move or two, slightly right to the dihedral (direct start into this dihedral is prob 5.11, starting in the mini cave w/ finger crack and poor feet). Climb it then traverse the top of the flake left, past a piece of tat, making an exciting 5.9 face traverse move that you don't want to blow. Above this place a md/lg nut to protect the second from a big penji, after that piece, keep going left around the corner 30' then up a splitter crack in a flare and belay above. It's easy to find the rest of the route from here.
Guillaume Dargaud on the second pitch. <br /> <br />I don't know if this route has tricky route finding or what, but is seemed like we were always wondering where the hell to go. <br />
»
Here's a shot of Guillaume, fully off-route and now dealing with poorly protected 5.10 face climbing. <br /> <br />Wheeee......
Id# 106002690, 978 x 654px View full size
Comments on Photo Add Comment
- none yet -
Photo 3 of 11
Avg Score   5.0 from 1 votes
Your Score   

Here's a shot of Guillaume, fully off-route and now dealing with poorly protected 5.10 face climbing.

Wheeee......

Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Aug 2, 2007
On this route:
Astro Elephant (5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a )
 Printer View