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By John Hymer
Jul 29, 2007
I recommend either the North Face route or Left Eyebrow. Be extremely cautious of loose rock on all Organ routes. The North Face route goes from the lowest point of rock to the summit. Although there are numerous variations to these routes, here is some pitch information from my notes.
North Face III 5.6 or 5.7:
Pitch 1: 200 third class to a tree.
2: 100 to a good stance.
3: 190 past the bolts and slings under the arete, then left up a ramp to a small tree
4: 90 up to a ramp, then right to a large ledge.
5: 100 up and right to a left facing dihedral, clip bolts at top of dihedral, then left to the ledge and large fixed pin under the large right facing dihedral. (crux).
6: 210 climb right of the dihedral and left over it near the top to a slab to a good ledge.
7: 110 climb straight up to the dike and follow the dike to a good stance next to a left facing dihedral. place nuts for the anchor.
8: 100? Follow loose rock around the dike to a good stance . Place an alien and nut for the anchor in a right facing crack
9: 100-150? Follow chicken heads and knobs on loose flakes to a good stance. Thread a sling through a hole on a right facing dihedral for an anchor.
10: 140 Climb big chicken heads to a good stance approximately 30 from where lichen covered rocks slabs out.
11: Short 4th class to 3rd class to summit
Beta for Left Eyebrow (Variation A) III 5.7:
1: 150 Begin in a right facing dihedral (just to the left of Banana Peel). Traverse left, over the dihedral, below the Question Mark crack. Continue left to a stance with a single 1/4 bolt.
2: 150 Climb to a large ledge.
3: 100 Traverse up and right and then down to a large live tree.
4: 170 Climb a left angling chossy ledge to the dead tree. The crux is loose 5.6 near the end.
5: 155 Climb up and right to what looks like a difficult roof. Climb over the arete to the right. It is much easier than it looks. Small nuts protect the roof. After the roof, climb nice feature to a 1/4 bolt and traverse right to a right facing dihedral and climb up to a two bolt anchor.
6: Climb right and place small nuts in a crack and then up nice rock past a 1/4 bolt to the base of a large right facing dihedral.
7: 4th class and easy 5th until it is convenient to belay.
8: 4th class ramps to the summit.
I recommend beginning on the N Face Route. Climb the first six pitches of the N Face Route. From the top of the sixth, traverse right to a live tree on the Left Eyebrow.
Flea Tree Route: 5.7 Grade III
1: Begin on the high saddle just to the right of the Eye. Climb approximately 250 to a good ledge.
2: Climb right to the crack. After about 50, traverse left to another crack and then back to the original crack. Find a belay stance in the dihedral.
3: Secure climbing in the dihedral. Belay where it is convenient.
4: At the top of the dihedral, climb the face to the tree.
5: Climb 4th class and easy 5th on loose rock. Traverse right into the dike to avoid large loose flakes.
6: 4th class to the summit.
The best way to get off of Sugarloaf is to rap to the south saddle. Only one rope is required if you use the intermediate anchor. To get to the rap anchor, walk the south ridge line until you see the 2 bolt anchor. You may want to rope up for the ridge. The anchor is 165 from the ground. I usually lower my partner to the ground, then rappel in two pitches. Two ropes are not necessary. From the saddle, scramble to the west to another anchor and rap the short low angle slab. Follow slabs and obscure trails along the west base of the rock.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Oct 16, 2012
|Great information above. Just wanted to note that someone installed a second rap line off of the south ridge which can easily be confused with the above rap line (but is very different). See the descent section on the Sugarloaf page for details.|