Type: Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Gary Wolfarth & Jason Foote Summer 2006
Page Views: 3,606 total · 17/month
Shared By: J Foote on Dec 13, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1: Start in a left-facing corner [one bolt]. Continue up easy (runout) slab to bushy ramp. Climb the roof above to chains. 120'

P2: Easy right-facing corner and over roof. Step right onto slab [fixed KB] climbing technical terrain past two additional bolts. Continue up corner to roof. Step left onto slab [three bolts] to reach rap rings. 160'+/-

P3: Climb corner above anchors passing three bolts. Excellent climbing. 160'. This pitch was originally led without bolts!

P4: Follow easy slab to two-bolt anchor below roof. No pro. 60'

P5: "Puke Pitch". Step right to main left-facing/angled corner. Climb up the corner (thin pro) past two pins. Step left into next corner (very exposed) and climb handcrack to two-bolt belay on ledge in chimney. 200'

P6: Climb left side of chimney until it is possible to step across to the right. Loose chockstones--Beware! Climb to right of tree through brushy area and onto slab. Pass three bolts before heading back into brush for tree belay.

P7: Climb slab left of bushy corner. After second bolt work right to roof and finger crack. Mantle to 4:20 ledge for tree slings. 100'

P8: "The Tower of Bliss". Diagonal right past three bolts to groove/crack on right side of tower. Rap station in trees. 120'

This route was established ground up.

Location Suggest change

Approach: Park at the Grist Mill (.06 miles up from sign) Just below the Wasatch Resort is an old bridge abutments (approx. 400 yards down the trail) Cross the river here and head straight up the wash. Pick up a bouldering trail winding uphill. Pass the "Prime Rib" boulder and continue up and right on faint trail to base of climb. Approx. 20 minutes. During spring runoff it is impossible to cross the creek. You can cross higher up the canyon and traverse into the Wasatch Resort Bouldering Area and then continue up to the climb.
Descent: From the top of the 4:20 ledge it is possible to rap into the drainage to the west for an easy walkoff. Start from northern point of ledge for two raps to the west from fixed anchors. 110' and 70'. Thrash down to the main gully until you reach an impassable cliff. Traverse right (upcanyon) following the buttress edge back to the base of the climb. Approx. 15 minutes from rappel.

Protection Suggest change

Medium nuts, 00 TCU thru #4 Camalot, lots of runners

Photos

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