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Best Climbing Helmet

Original Post
Mike Epke · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 110

I am in the process of looking for a new brain bucket and just wondering what others feel is the best on the market. I know differences exist for type of climbing preferred, but for a general all-around helmet, what is the best? Thanks.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

I've the Grivel Saly. I like it, though it may serve better as an alpine & ice noggin coffin; trad'n is dang hot.

That BD helmet is a good one; saved some lives this past year.

Adrian Hill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2002 · Points: 15

The best helmet is the one you'll actually wear. (I read that somewhere, and it rings true in my case.) I have hated helmets all my life, starting with the original Joe Brown helmet that was probably strong enough to break a windshield, but too heavy to wear.

I agree with Jed, if he's talking about the previous Meteor helmets, but I recently bought the Meteor III - finally a helmet that doesn't live in my pack. The fit is adequate, and it's very light. Also, easy to clip on a headlamp.

saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221

I'm partial to the Petzl Ecrin Roc helmet. Though I think it's way overpriced, it's very comfortable, light and easily adjustable.

A buddy of mine was using one of the lower-priced Petzl helmets (the Elios, I think), and it broke at one of the strap attachment rivets. Seemed poorly constructed to me.

JL

James Beissel · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 905

I wouldn't consider the Ecrin to be light (it's one of the heaviest helmets on the market at 17ozs) but they are pretty bomber and easy to adjust. Saxfiend had a buddy break a rivet on an Elios. I broke a rivet on my Ecrin. YMMV. It was easy to repair and the helmet is still in service after about 8 years of wear and tear.

I've been using an Elios as my primary helmet for about two years now and have been pleased with it. It's over a quarter pound lighter than an Ecrin, has some foam padding in it (which the Ecrin does not) and still easy to adjust.

Many of my friends have been pleased with the Black Diamond Half Dome, especially women who tell me that it is the most compatible with a pony tail. If you are one of those long haired hippie types you might want to try that one.

The Tracer looks good and I think the foam has alot more ability to protect you from a head impact during a fall, but I would consider these types of helmets for cragging only. If you do any long alpine routes where you could be hit by rocks or hunks of ice multiple times on a route, or you are an ice climber I would not reccommend a foam helmet. You also have to be careful not to crack them while inside your pack.

One thing I would reccommond no mater what helmet you buy is to keep it in a bag of some sort while carrying in your pack, especially helmets with foam linings. This will help keep cams, nut tools, etc, from tearing apart the foam lining and it will keep your helmet from getting too grimy.

ERiK Ostrander · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 36
Jed Pointer wrote:I'm ready to just start wearing my bike helmet.
IMO a bike helmet is not well suited to climbing.
The main reason for wearing a helmet when you climb is to keep falling rocks from killing you. Bike helmets are not designed for top impact. Bike helmets have large ventilation holes on the top that could allow rocks to go through and hit your brain.

Please, wear a helmet that is designed for climbing (aka top impacts, etc...)

If you go to your local gear shop they will have plenty of experienced people that should allow you to try on as many helmets as you want. I like the Ecrin Roc for a good all around harness. I've had mine for 8+ years, and my brain is still rock free.
Stefanie Van Wychen · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 75

I just have the standard BD Halfdome and it works (a little heavy) - however my advice is to not buy anything colored - stick with WHITE!! My helmet is blue and it bakes my brain in the sun............ My fiance has the new Petzl bike-type helmet dealy with the airvents - it looks completely dorky, hahaha, but it is really light (it's also white) and it seems to stay on straight as compared to the Halfdome which is always falling to the side when I wear it.... Maybe I have a misshapen head, who knows....

lbishop · · Durango, CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 205

I agree w/ James that if you're into anything ice or alpine, stick w/ a hardshell helmet like the Ecrin Roc. The foam lined helmets (elios, half dome, etc) aren't designed to accept multiple impacts. I own both the BD Half Dome and the Ecrin Roc. Yes they are both a bit on the heavy side but both offer good ventilation and are pretty comfortable. When you pick out a new lid I think you should wear it around the shop for a bit to see what it's like after 5 to 10 minutes. You may feel a bit awkward doing that but I've found that some helmets really start to dig in after having it on for a bit after feeling comfortable at first. Or, if you don't want to do that, just buy the helmet at REI and if you don't like it, return it! Ha!

saxfiend · · Decatur, GA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,221
James Beissel wrote:I wouldn't consider the Ecrin to be light (it's one of the heaviest helmets on the market at 17ozs)
You're right, I should have stated that differently. It's not the lightest by far, but it's light enough to where the weight doesn't really bother me.

JL
Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

Joe Brown.

Tom Pierce · · Englewood, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Mike: Helmet choice is obviously much like rock shoe choice, ie a "hot" shoe isn't for you if it fits poorly (btw I agree bike helmets generally have a superior fit...). I've owned many climbing helmets over the years, old Joe Browns, Petzls, etc. The latest which I really like is the BD Tracer. It has a reasonably hard shell with a foam backing so it fits closer to the head than the pure hard shell with a webbing suspension. I like it, others of course may not. It also comes in sizes vs. some which are a one-size-fits-all shell, and it's also adjustable within a size. One thing I noticed between the Tracer and the new Petzl Meteor (which I tried, also a fine helmet) is that the Tracer seemed to be shaped for a more oval head, while the Petzl is sized for a rounder head. It just fit me better. Good luck.

Matthew Montes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Hi I am Matthew Montes. I really love climbing and I know the importance of having a good head protector. That is why I just wrote an article about the best climbing helmets. You may read this if you are looking for a helmet that suits for you.  

Kirtis Courkamp · · Golden · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 378

I've been using the singing rock penta for 2 years now multiple times a week 52 weeks a year for ice, rock, alpine and it's held up amazingly well. It's starting to get some small dents from the ice battering and general wear and tear but I would say it's got another year in it.  http://www.weighmyrack.com/Helmet/Singing-Rock-Penta  

I tried my buddies beal alantais and it was pretty sweet it's another one of the new generation of lightweight foam helmet with a thin plastic shell for puncture protection. 

Get a light weight helmet that you wear all day every day. Whether you are climbing or belaying; sport, trad, or ice. It does no good if you're not wearing it. 

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340
Matthew Montes wrote:

Hi I am Matthew Montes. I really love climbing and I know the importance of having a good head protector. That is why I just wrote an article about the best climbing helmets. You may read this if you are looking for a helmet that suits for you.  

you resurrected a 10yr old thread for this.......nice!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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