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Routes in Observatory Dome
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Deep Impact T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Looks Can Be Deceiving T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Observatory T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rain Man T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ryan's Song T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | L Paik? |
| Page Views: | 688 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 7, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This route is named in memory of Ryan Keller (son of a good friend), who died much too young in a tragic car accident a few years back. This route is aesthetic, elegant, inspiring, but it ends far too quickly. It took a while to find an appropriate route to name in his honor.
The rock is still a bit raw and gritty. Nonetheless, it inspired a second, lengthy approach up to climb it.
With rain and hail pressing, a toprope ascent was all Mother Nature allowed us. It could be led, but it would be heady for sure...maybe R or R/X.
Start on the right side of the arete. Be careful with the loose-appearing block. You can climb delicately around it. Squeeze the arete and straddle it, kick around to the left side (potential cam placement for directional or lead), move back to the right side, continue past a blue Alien placement (for directional), and finish up easier rock to the top of the arete. The optional block up top seems precariously perched in metastability.
You can downclimb ~8' off the block to a stance ~60' up where you could thread a long 1" sling through a tight, natural slot. A long Abalakov hook/coat wire is necessary to pull the sling back through the slot. Alternatively, you can downclimb the left side in the corner (a la Kelly Cordes) or traverse out right on Rain Man to the ledge above and the walkoff.
Note, there appeared to be bear scat in the area.
The rock is still a bit raw and gritty. Nonetheless, it inspired a second, lengthy approach up to climb it.
With rain and hail pressing, a toprope ascent was all Mother Nature allowed us. It could be led, but it would be heady for sure...maybe R or R/X.
Start on the right side of the arete. Be careful with the loose-appearing block. You can climb delicately around it. Squeeze the arete and straddle it, kick around to the left side (potential cam placement for directional or lead), move back to the right side, continue past a blue Alien placement (for directional), and finish up easier rock to the top of the arete. The optional block up top seems precariously perched in metastability.
You can downclimb ~8' off the block to a stance ~60' up where you could thread a long 1" sling through a tight, natural slot. A long Abalakov hook/coat wire is necessary to pull the sling back through the slot. Alternatively, you can downclimb the left side in the corner (a la Kelly Cordes) or traverse out right on Rain Man to the ledge above and the walkoff.
Note, there appeared to be bear scat in the area.
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