My Partner leading (somewhere) on the Nose.

Johnny Ray > Early Daze

My Partner leading (somewhere) on the Nose.

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Me leading off the traverse and hand crack from Dolt to El cap tower.

Who knows where, just take it for granted, it was somewhere in the sea of El Capitan.

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Johnny Ray

Jun 13, 2007

“My Partner leading (somewhere) on the Nose.”

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Looking down from high on the route at a rope. The picture does it little justice, but for our last 1/2 day on the wall we followed these two Germans that caught up to us (and we allowed to pass).<br>
They were somewhat of a spectacle to us. The leader, this long tall dude who lead every pitch and moved very fast and smooth, would simply tie off the rope and allow his second to jug' and clean the pitch. The second never tied into the rope, ever ...<br>
So for the last 1/2 day.. we followed right behind this bitter end of climbing rope jiggling up and down. We even had to toss it at times, away from cracks we were climbing. It was very eery almost spooky.

Me leading off the traverse and hand crack from Dolt to El cap tower.

My Partner leading (somewhere) on the Nose.

Who knows where, just take it for granted, it was somewhere in the sea of El Capitan.

What a view, from high on the Nose.

Looking off towards the east and Sentinal, from the upper corners of the Nose.

Leading a fun, clean crack in the vicinity of dolt tower on the Nose.

My partner after jugging up to the top of our fixed rope above camp VI. we toped out on the Nose, early/mid morning of our third day.<br>
When we got to camp VI we didn't feel we had enough light to top out before dark and we only had one headlamp between us. So since we had some daylight left, we fixed and top roped this pitch before settling in for the night.

Looking down from the start the 'upper corners' shortly above the Great Roof.

Sunset from camp VI on the Nose.<br>
This was our second bivy.

Looking off down the east face of the Captain towards Sentenal<br>
<br>
Looking off down the east face of the Captain towards Sentinel, from about the level of Dolt Tower. This was about 10:30 am the first day.<br>
<br>

The incomparable view you get of Half Dome and the high Sierra when you top out on the 'captain.

La Concita<br>
classic single pitch El Cap base route<br>
spring 1980<br>
Dig the style 'eh.<br>
The Swami belt, hand leathered uppers EB climbing shoes, green and white piped gym shorts with stretch socks.

Middle Cathedral Rock<br>
East Buttress<br>
Yosemite, sept. 78'<br>
<br>
This picture is very dear to me, because the climb and times were so special and almost magical to me. I did the East buttress my first season in Yosemite valley. I was 17 years old and living in camp 4. I had bumped into numerous Newhampshire climbers in Yosemite that season. One, my partner on the East Butt' was Paul Boissenault. He was/is like a daffy God to me. "Base" as he is affectionately known is an extremely talented climber, yet very modest and humble. He has always got a cheerful easy going 'tude and is just an all around, great guy.<br>
When I bumped into base that fall I knew him slightly, but "of him" greatly from the Mount Washington valley N.H climbing scene. He and his good friend had made a trip out west and did some killer wall in the WindRiver range W.Y on the way to Yosemite, where they did the 13th ascent of Pacific Ocean Wall. <br>
So you can imagine, I was honored to take base up on an offer to do the East Butt with him. I will never forget the climb. We thought we may not beat the crowd to the base (crowd, 1978 .. lmao) so we brought a bunch of tube chocks. Base said if we weren't first on the route then he would rather do this hideous offwidth thing right around the corner from the East butt' Thank God we had the route to ourselves, we went and looked at that offwidth thing. Jaws of hell I say, that's what all OW's are, hideous things. This was particularly nasty. you know the sustained .10d type madness only a masochist like Bob Scarpelli would come to enjoy.<br>
Any way, wence we roped up for the climb, Base said he'd lead the first pitch. As he got about 20' up he said "when the rope runs out just start climbing, it's really easy for the first 5 or so pitches so we will just 'simul' up to the ledge before the bolt ladder. He had done the route before and was climbing in top form. I did not doubt my abilities and was realistic about the level of them. I thought 'hell if base says so, and he knows my ability..." OFF WE Go. <br>
So that's what we did, we simul'd to the belay at the bolt ladder/5.10 face pitch. The we swapped leads till about 4 pitches below the top, were we simul'd off.<br>
We were back in camp eating cookies and lounging well before dark.

Tuolumne Meadows 'round 1980

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