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Getting steeper. Photo Keith Beisner
Id# 105969642, 500 x 752px View full size
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By dnaiscool
Apr 20, 2015
There are key little tricks that are good to know about the top of this crack:

1.) The Knee Bar for the right leg is a good way to de-pump...just look out for the obvious little flake on the right wall to dip your toes on. It is a bit awkward to set the gear from and clip, but that's how I did it...4.5 to 5 Camalot...on the right hip.

2.)Once you reef past the black knob with the left in a sort of "Pull the Arrow" move, reach up into the crack above and seek that killer 1/3rd inch deep vertical edge to crimp with the right...just feel around in there, you'll know it when you find it. This is a key hold to getting the left up over the top.

3.) Avoid the belly flop over the left edge at the top by doing a twin mantle with a hand on each side of the top...if you have the reserve power...and a back step with the left foot on the knob helps set this up.
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Getting steeper. Photo Keith Beisner

Submitted By: Mike Stearns on May 30, 2007
On this route:
Bongeater (5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b )
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Photo Of: Mike Stearns

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