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Routes in Penitente - Entrance Area
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[Redacted] T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Abrazos y Chingazos S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alien In My Underpants S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Apocketlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Art of Suffering T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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BBC? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black is Beautiful S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boltergeist S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Camino De La Sonia T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Captain America S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cassandra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Color Blind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Color of Devotion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Colors Of Emotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dive Right In S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dos Hombres S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Drill Seeker S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dynosaur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Entrance Slab Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Forbidden Fruit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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French Lesson S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Glutton for Punishment S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Go Vandals S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Hand Jam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hareless T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hummingbird S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Illegal Alien S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Iron Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Laura T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loony Toons S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lovesnake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mark's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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May-B-Nueve S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Milo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mission in the Rain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mission in the Snow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mr. Breeze S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Mr. Wind S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mysterious Redhead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nature Of The Beast, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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No Regret S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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OPS S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Persephone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prick Pocket S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Que Pasa S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Queso Cabeza S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rocket Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sangrador, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Self-flagellation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Serpent, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shitty Gift, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sitting in Limbo S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Stand, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stemoroids S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tangerine Dream T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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That's the Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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To Err Is Human T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Twist of Fate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Twist of Feet S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Easy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Wages of Sin T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wearing the Inside Out S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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What The Hey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wolf Nipple Chips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yah-Ta-Hei S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| FA: | Glenn Schuler & Kevin McLaughlin, 9/88 |
| Page Views: | 6,809 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jul 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021
Details
Per Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th. Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.
Description
This is a fun climb & a great reason to haul some gear in. I find the exact location a bit hard to explain.... This is about 1/2 way to Captain America and on the right (like most routes). A short vertical crack that quickly mellows in angle and soon becomes a ledge that slopes up and to the right.
From this ledge, there is a great bolted line that climbs huecos up the steep wall. We were immediately attracted to the bolted line & then followed it down to the trad crack start. The .10d is (I'd guess) the bolted portion, but the crack down low earns some respect as well.
Eds. As of May 2023, we confirmed that the original name, Bucket Slave, has not been changed by the FAs, despite any guidebook author's published information.
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