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All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Ghost (North, S… > N Ghost
<b><br> * The Eagle, III, WI 5/ 40m<br> </b> (climbers right) By far the best and most challenging route in Valley of the Birds. It is aptly named as it is shaped like an eagle. It was in fair-good shape in March, slightly wet and chandelierly in places. At the dead end of the narrow canyon, take the right fork and gain several ice steps. The Eagle comes into view all at once on the right side. Start up the base cone (which represents the tail feathers) and stay center until you get to the center of the wings. Move left onto a small ledge/ice cave and continue up more solid ice on the left side to a tree rappel. Sustained and steep.<br> Valley of the Birds, North Ghost, Canadian Rockies, March, 2007
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What happens when you just get too cocky with your FJ. (Devil's Gap in the background) Was just down here 2 days prior on the same path (not really much roads) to the north ghost, and took the wrong turn into a ditch covered by this drift. A shovel and potential sleeping gear are a must in the Ghost. Tons of horror stories to go around including losing vehicles to the river. Beowulf, III, WI 4, North Ghost, March, 2007.
<b>1st Pitch/60m-</b> I combined what many would consider two pitches but is easily done as one. Climb the first step (WI 3) left of center and walk to the base of the real falls. This is a WI 4 30m beauty. The left side was better ice but less steeply angled than the right. The right side was more challenging, but was quite wet and chandeliery. I started right, but soon, detoured left and then back to the center towards the end of this pitch. There is a chain anchor on the right as you top out. This can be a very cold belay, so make sure to pack your down on lead. Also beware of falling rock whose fall line appears to be the left side, another reason for taking the more challenging line to the right if the ice is in better shape.<br> Beowulf, III, WI 4, North Ghost, March, 2007
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Dow Williams
Apr 30, 2007
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  • The Eagle, III, WI 5/ 40m
 (climbers right) By far the best and most challenging route in Valley of the Birds. It is aptly named as it is shaped like an eagle. It was in fair-good shape in March, slightly wet and chandelierly in places. At the dead end of the narrow canyon, take the right fork and gain several ice steps. The Eagle comes into view all at once on the right side. Start up the base cone (which represents the tail feathers) and stay center until you get to the center of the wings. Move left onto a small ledge/ice cave and continue up more solid ice on the left side to a tree rappel. Sustained and steep.
Valley of the Birds, North Ghost, Canadian Rockies, March, 2007 ”  

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<b>1st Pitch/60m-</b> I combined what many would consider two pitches but is easily done as one. Climb the first step (WI 3) left of center and walk to the base of the real falls. This is a WI 4 30m beauty. The left side was better ice but less steeply angled than the right. The right side was more challenging, but was quite wet and chandeliery. I started right, but soon, detoured left and then back to the center towards the end of this pitch. There is a chain anchor on the right as you top out. This can be a very cold belay, so make sure to pack your down on lead. Also beware of falling rock whose fall line appears to be the left side, another reason for taking the more challenging line to the right if the ice is in better shape.<br> Beowulf, III, WI 4, North Ghost, March, 2007
<b>Last Two Pitches/60m and 25m-</b> Eventually you come to a short waterfall step ahead and to the right and to your left is a 60m tall waterfall of WI 4 broken up by a few steps. The steepest section is the first 20 meters or so. You more than likely will be angling back left until you reach the first break. Than approach the 2nd section head on and the final piece angles back left again, until you top out to a broad bench with trees to your left for belay. Beowulf, III, WI 4, North Ghost, March, 2007
<b><br> * Seagull, III, WI 4/ 30m<br> </b> (climbers left) Solo a real short WI 3 step to reach the base of Seagull. The left corner is dryer and offers a better belay position. The climb is best straight up the gut however and was on the easy side of WI 4 if not a WI 3 in March. There is a rappel sling with a ring straight up to a tree, but it can be dry, loose and messy. I advise top roping Seagull for the 2nd.<br> Valley of the Birds, North Ghost, Canadian Rockies, March, 2007
<b><br> * Yellow Bird, III, WI 4+/ 40m<br> </b> (climbers right) Takes some WI 2 to get to the base of Yellow Bird high up on your right hand side, fairly immediate as you start traversing the narrow canyon. Yellow Bird is a fairly wide curtain and gives you different grades depending on which line you chose. We went left which is WI 4 until you get to the cave. There is fixed pro in the cave, looks like a rock line up and down underneath the falls at this point. There are several bolts, but someone rigged a long piece of coordelette to give you a piece of solid pro as you continue on weak ice out the left or hard ice out the right. Either line was WI 5 in character in March, sustained and steep.<br> Yellow Bird, WI 4+, Valley of the Birds, North Ghost, Canadian Rockies, March, 2007
Devil's Punchbowl, IV, WI 4, North Ghost, Canadian Rockies, March, 2007
<b><br> * Seagull, III, WI 4/ 30m<br> </b> (climbers left) Solo a real short WI 3 step to reach the base of Seagull. The left corner is dryer and offers a better belay position. The climb is best straight up the gut however and was on the easy side of WI 4 if not a WI 3 in March. There is a rappel sling with a ring straight up to a tree, but it can be dry, loose and messy. I advise top roping Seagull for the 2nd.<br> Valley of the Birds, North Ghost, Canadian Rockies, March, 2007
What happens when you just get too cocky with your FJ. (Devil's Gap in the background) Was just down here 2 days prior on the same path (not really much roads) to the north ghost, and took the wrong turn into a ditch covered by this drift. A shovel and potential sleeping gear are a must in the Ghost. Tons of horror stories to go around including losing vehicles to the river. Beowulf, III, WI 4, North Ghost, March, 2007.
<b><br> * The Eagle, III, WI 5/ 40m<br> </b> (climbers right) By far the best and most challenging route in Valley of the Birds. It is aptly named as it is shaped like an eagle. It was in fair-good shape in March, slightly wet and chandelierly in places. At the dead end of the narrow canyon, take the right fork and gain several ice steps. The Eagle comes into view all at once on the right side. Start up the base cone (which represents the tail feathers) and stay center until you get to the center of the wings. Move left onto a small ledge/ice cave and continue up more solid ice on the left side to a tree rappel. Sustained and steep.<br> Valley of the Birds, North Ghost, Canadian Rockies, March, 2007
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