Capitalism & Freedom
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 35 votes
Type: | Sport, 155 ft (47 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup, February 2007 |
Page Views: | 4,542 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Feb 9, 2007 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
Two sustained and varied pitches up the large formation on the left side of the gully, opposite "Permanent Income Hypothesis."
Pitch 1, "Capitalism" (5.10a/b, 80 feet, 5 bolts)
Steep, edgy face climbing. The crux is reaching and passing the second bolt. Belay at a ledge from bolts.
Pitch 2, "Freedom" (5.9, 85 feet, 8 bolts)
Face climbing, chimneying, and liebacking make for an extremely varied pitch. The faint of heart will want additional pro through the crux sequence above the fifth bolt (the crack takes a #1 TCU up to 1.5"). A thought-provoking, slabby finish takes you to an airy and exposed summit. Belay from bolts.
Pitch 1, "Capitalism" (5.10a/b, 80 feet, 5 bolts)
Steep, edgy face climbing. The crux is reaching and passing the second bolt. Belay at a ledge from bolts.
Pitch 2, "Freedom" (5.9, 85 feet, 8 bolts)
Face climbing, chimneying, and liebacking make for an extremely varied pitch. The faint of heart will want additional pro through the crux sequence above the fifth bolt (the crack takes a #1 TCU up to 1.5"). A thought-provoking, slabby finish takes you to an airy and exposed summit. Belay from bolts.
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