Type: Trad, 85 ft (26 m) Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Skip Guerin, Chip Ruckgaber, 1983
Page Views: 5,788 total · 28/month
Shared By: Hank Caylor on Apr 9, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pull up into the roof's apex and crimp up and right to a left-angling, slopey ramp. This is the last chance to chicken out and avoid a really, really, bad fall (great climbing, though). Commit to the slopey ramp and find more hard climbing and similar commiting moves into the final dihedral, where more heinously great and commiting moves are to be found until the top is gratefully reached.

If Skip Guerin did this in '83, and Fire' climbing shoes didn't get imported to the U.S. until '84, it means Skip did this in EBs, and thus makes him the burliest human I know. That or he's the devil.

Location Suggest change

Sheer Terror starts in an obvious roof apex about 20'-30' down and to the right of the Scotch and Soda roof. They actually kinda look like roof twinsies.

Protection Suggest change

Clip 2 OLD pins and an OLD fixed stopper in the roof's apex. This tat will keep you from grounding for the route's technical crux. A crappy red Alien and all the RPs you own are what's left for pro for the next 60'-70'. A pin anchor is at the top.

Per Brad G: there are no longer any pins at the anchor, just an old rusty nut.

Photos

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