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All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Jasper NP > Mt Edith Cavell > N Face - Chouinard/Be… (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow)
Bill Wright, master of the mush ...
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The route takes the buttress in the center of the face.
I remember the move off this foothold as one of the scariest moments of the climb (and I was belaying!). Bill climbing wet slimy rock protected by this knifeblade.
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George Bell
Apr 5, 2007
“Bill Wright, master of the mush ...”  

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Cool view looking down the summit snowfield. I was psyched here because by digging through the mush I was able to belay from two bomber ice screws.
The route takes the buttress in the center of the face.
Bill Wright, master of the mush ...
I remember the move off this foothold as one of the scariest moments of the climb (and I was belaying!). Bill climbing wet slimy rock protected by this knifeblade.
Crossing the bergschrund while listening apprehensively for the whistle of rock fall.
Nearing the top of the rock section in deteriorating conditions.
The route followed by us (your mileage may vary)
N. Face approach topo
Happy times on the crux buttress, above most of the rock fall.
Next morning crossing on the Angel Glacier. The route diagonals up and right from the top of Bill's head.
The waterfall on the steep buttress that must be climbed to reach the Angel Glacier. We climbed the rock on the far left side of this photo.
The North Face in profile from the descent (composite image).

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Bill Wright
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