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Routes in Gunsmoke Area
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Die-Hedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Enter the Dragon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fists of Fury T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jack the Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jack the Ripper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,492 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Beck on Mar 2, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Note: This route no longer exists due to rockfall in February 2003. The description remains for historical significance only.
A fist crack out a short roof right off the ground leads to a squeeze chimney. What looks like heinous offwidthing around the lip of the roof is made much easier by a "thank god" hold inside the crack. Squeeze and standard chimneying lead to the top. Might deserve an "s" rating as it's hard to protect higher though the climbing is easy and it's not a chimney that you're likely to fall out of. Gear anchor and descend a low angle chimney behind and to the right of the route.
A fist crack out a short roof right off the ground leads to a squeeze chimney. What looks like heinous offwidthing around the lip of the roof is made much easier by a "thank god" hold inside the crack. Squeeze and standard chimneying lead to the top. Might deserve an "s" rating as it's hard to protect higher though the climbing is easy and it's not a chimney that you're likely to fall out of. Gear anchor and descend a low angle chimney behind and to the right of the route.
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