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East Face Right/Finger Flatiron
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British X
Avg: 1.5 from 6
votes
Routes in Finger Flatiron
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Dropline TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Face Right/Finger Flatiron T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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East Face/Finger Flatiron T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Just Right TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Mere Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monodoigt T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No "Tufa" Ones Here? TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Northwest Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Patience S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Polydoigt TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Right Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Side of the Sky S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Thicker T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thinner T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 440 ft (133 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | R. Rossiter, solo, 1988 (???) |
| Page Views: | 719 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 16, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This route begins nearly the same as for the standard East face.
P1 (5.6, 60M) Start face-climbing near the small bolt-on "Mallory Cave" placard and climb up though a notch through an overhang, some 40-50 feet up. Continue up and right to the right most edge of the continuous face, staying left of the left-facing dihedral. You could work futher right (north) but the rock there is trashy and discontinuous. As you climb upward, you will see where the rock on the far right side ends. After almost 60 M you will be climbing up some broken rock to the right hand edge of the "finger" of this Flatiron. Belay after 60M. on a sheflf or int he dish just left (south) of a thin rib of rock.
P2 (5.7 "?", 70M) Step up and right around a left-facing feature onto a 2-3M wide "rib" of rock that faces east. This rock is mostly good, but there is a little lichen and crumble here or there. Protect in a vertical crack up and left after passing the remains of a tiny "Bonzai" tree, then continue to climb up and to the right. Protect whenever possible, as you will not have the opportunity later and may well wish you had put it in when it was available. After perhaps 60', you will be stepping out right on the arete formed by the right margin of this rib and wondering if the ground to the north is less than twice the distance from you as your last piece. Continue climbing up to the shoulder of the rock, and then up and left ont he shoulder to the summit. Just feet below the summit, there is a good beloay bowl. If you are on a 60M rope, you will have to have an intermediate belay or a little simul-climbing. A 70M rope [should] just make it.
To descend, rap NW from the station on the true summit.
P1 (5.6, 60M) Start face-climbing near the small bolt-on "Mallory Cave" placard and climb up though a notch through an overhang, some 40-50 feet up. Continue up and right to the right most edge of the continuous face, staying left of the left-facing dihedral. You could work futher right (north) but the rock there is trashy and discontinuous. As you climb upward, you will see where the rock on the far right side ends. After almost 60 M you will be climbing up some broken rock to the right hand edge of the "finger" of this Flatiron. Belay after 60M. on a sheflf or int he dish just left (south) of a thin rib of rock.
P2 (5.7 "?", 70M) Step up and right around a left-facing feature onto a 2-3M wide "rib" of rock that faces east. This rock is mostly good, but there is a little lichen and crumble here or there. Protect in a vertical crack up and left after passing the remains of a tiny "Bonzai" tree, then continue to climb up and to the right. Protect whenever possible, as you will not have the opportunity later and may well wish you had put it in when it was available. After perhaps 60', you will be stepping out right on the arete formed by the right margin of this rib and wondering if the ground to the north is less than twice the distance from you as your last piece. Continue climbing up to the shoulder of the rock, and then up and left ont he shoulder to the summit. Just feet below the summit, there is a good beloay bowl. If you are on a 60M rope, you will have to have an intermediate belay or a little simul-climbing. A 70M rope [should] just make it.
To descend, rap NW from the station on the true summit.
Protection
The Flatiron can be protected reasonably with one set of cams from small to fist-sized. Nuts or tricams could be taken as a backup or to add a few placements... but if you are not comfortable here with just a little pro, you should climb something else.The slabby crux of this route comes after a 40' runout. In the event of a crux-fall, you would more likely smack the ground ont he north side of the Flatiron than you will be stopped by your last pro.
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