Last Chance Canyon Rock Climbing
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 5,706 ft |
GPS: |
32.2336, -104.7537 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 206,480 total · 988/month |
Shared By: | Olf Ensive on Feb 15, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Last Chance Canyon is home to some of the best sport climbing in New Mexico. The limestone in the canyon is of variable quality, but the bulk of the existing routes are on top-shelf stone that would rival that of famous European crags. There are two distinct styles of climbs: technical, near vertical faces on thin edges and excellent pockets, and steep jug-hauls up enormous sweeping roofs of layered shelfs. The canyon currently hosts ~120 bolted routes, ranging in difficulty from 5.4 to 5.13+. There is potential for many more excellent lines, but a bolting ban has been imposed by Lincoln National Forest (see access note for more information).
There are around 15 distinct crags in the canyon, facing all directions. In the winter, sun-seekers can climb at the Violince Wall, Tornado Alley, or the Breakfast Wall in the morning. Crags that get afternoon sun are The Sunporch, Santa Fe Wall, Tombstone Wall, The Beer Garden, and Tsunami Wall. In the warmer months head straight to the Mad Cow Wall, and Hueco Cave, two of the canyon's best cliffs.
Free camping is available on Lincoln National Forest adjacent to the parking area. A few trees offer shelter a few yards east of the parking lot. The altitude at the campground & parking lot is ~6,000 feet, so it will be significantly cooler than the temps in Carlsbad. The canyon bed is about 1,000 feet lower. In times of heavy rains, some crag bases will be submerged, and the access road can get extremely muddy.
If you're at LCC for an extended period of time, the Pilot Travel Center at the southern end of Carlsbad has two shower rooms. Showers are $12 and include a towel.
Please be respectful and pack your toilet paper out. Please refrain from utilizing protected areas and caves as bathrooms.
No toilet paper fairy
There are around 15 distinct crags in the canyon, facing all directions. In the winter, sun-seekers can climb at the Violince Wall, Tornado Alley, or the Breakfast Wall in the morning. Crags that get afternoon sun are The Sunporch, Santa Fe Wall, Tombstone Wall, The Beer Garden, and Tsunami Wall. In the warmer months head straight to the Mad Cow Wall, and Hueco Cave, two of the canyon's best cliffs.
Free camping is available on Lincoln National Forest adjacent to the parking area. A few trees offer shelter a few yards east of the parking lot. The altitude at the campground & parking lot is ~6,000 feet, so it will be significantly cooler than the temps in Carlsbad. The canyon bed is about 1,000 feet lower. In times of heavy rains, some crag bases will be submerged, and the access road can get extremely muddy.
If you're at LCC for an extended period of time, the Pilot Travel Center at the southern end of Carlsbad has two shower rooms. Showers are $12 and include a towel.
Please be respectful and pack your toilet paper out. Please refrain from utilizing protected areas and caves as bathrooms.
No toilet paper fairy
Getting There
From US 285, ~8 miles N of Carlsbad, head West on Highway 137 to Queen(~38 miles). On the far end of Queen, just after Mile Marker 18, turn right onto Forest Road 525 (signed). There are numerous spur roads, just follow the main track. You will encounter 2 cattle guards and two gates. After ~3 miles, make a hard left onto 525A (signed), and continue 1 more mile to the parking lot overlooking the canyon, passing an old shack.
The camping area is on the right side of the road, 100 yds before the parking lot.
The camping area is on the right side of the road, 100 yds before the parking lot.
Pack Out Your Used Toilet Paper (Leave No Trace ethics)
It is imperative climbers pack out their used toilet paper. The sport climbing area is very concentrated. The steep, loose slopes make it more difficult to find a place to use the bathroom resulting in some very popular "poop spots." Unfortunately. there is a large amount of used toilet paper floating around these popular spots. This is gross and disrespectful to the area and other climbers. Do your part--put your used toilet paper (and poop for bonus points) in a baggie and take it home for disposal. Also, always pack out what trash you brought in.
No toilet paper fairy
No toilet paper fairy
Classic Climbing Routes at Last Chance Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
High
|
Low
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
All Photos Within Last Chance Canyon
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About Last Chance Canyon
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (6)
43 Comments