Ice conditions, "IN" or "OUT"???

I was planning a trip to Ouray this weekend and I was hoping that someone would fill me in on when it is socially acceptable to climb and when it is not. The main question being temperature and condition. It seems on the front range that any temperature is acceptable as long as you're willing to take the risk. In my opinion 50 degrees, is somewhat dangerous and probably detrimental to the climb itself. Can someone help me with the consensus for the ice park and surrounding areas?

Yesterday it was drizzling in Ouray when we left around noon. I was starting to climb like a slushy from Sonic. The warm temps this last week were so-so and the climbing wasn't bad Fri-Sat, but with all the wet snow fall/drizzle and warm temps yesterday it was starting to get sketchy and super wet. Plenty of people were climbing but that doesn't mean to much. We witnessed some bigger ice falls just up canyon of the School Room, as well as super hollow sounding pillars and curtains in select locations. They tried to blow water Friday evening, and it didn't seem to take to well to all routes.

I guess if you're interested, the forecast is supposed to be cooler (as of 02-12-07), but then looks to warm up again for the weekend:

Ouray, CO NWS

check out skywardmountaineering.com/current.html

this page will give you some current ouray ice conditions.

i was in ridgway(10min from ouray) all last week, and it was 40-50 deg, and sunny everyday. still lots of shady routes to do!!

I very much appreciate the info. I have been checking the weather on NOAA quite a bit and it seems like things should firm up in the next few days. The warm temperatures potentially coming this weekend render my concern. I guess I would like to focus this question more from an ethical stand-point, without being a "jerk", as I have had posts deleted because I stated an opinion about the activity in Big Thompson this season. I've spent years ice climbing and many days sloggy to a route to decide things like, "Maybe I'll give it some more time to form up" and NOT climb. My mentality formed in a place where once a climb forms it will probably stay cold and only human forces will slow the ice formation until spring. I could be totally wrong now living in a place that routinely has many winter warm/thaw cycles. It's more like roulette, so is it not selfish?
Point is, undoubtedly there will be ice in the park this weekend. If it is 30, 35, 40 degrees, should it be climbed? This is not a safety question, I can figure that out myself. Can any front-range folks or locals, convey to me the locals' opinions on these matters?

Ethically speaking it is absolutely fine to climb ice no matter what the temps are- as far as a safety issue, sounds like you have that covered. I know many San Juan "locals" and I know they will be out even if it's tropical. Enjoy

One local's view:
We went out in the park yesterday an had a blast, even though it was warm, soggy, and raining. We'd better get used to it, as even George W. has conceded global warming. We knocked down some ice on some perhaps key routes. Some would say we ruined a climb, while others would say we finally brought it into condition. I reckon we had fun and didn't kill any bystanders, so no foul. If it gets cold, our diehard ice farmers will make more. If not, the ice is done for anyhow.
Especially in a giant experiment like the ice park where steel diving boards, artificial Monday/Thursday flows, and top-ropers wearing 12 ice screws are the norm, ethics have to be taken with a grain of salt. At least it's not World Cup, so go find some fun, and don't get wacked by a 1000lb. drooling dagger--

Hey TNF,

A couple of comments:
1) I don't think your comments were 'deleted' because you were being a jerk. I think 2 of your comments were deleted b/c they were attached to pictures that people requested to have removed from the database (hence your comment along w/ them. I know, b/c one of those photo's was mine).

2) I lived in Telluride last year, and quit ice climbing around the end of Feb, beginning of March due to the warm spells that were coming in. I simply quit climbing b/c I thought most things were too wet, slushy, and downright dangerous (for my taste). That said, I do not think others will mind (ethically) if you climb routes in the Ice Park if it is "open". They are usually "open" through some time in March - conditions dependent.

You might call Ouray Mountain Sports and ask them about your concerns. Skyward Mountaineering.com is also an excellent resource.

In general, your 'early season ethics' sound like the norm, but I don't think they apply as much in the late season, especially at the Ice Park. No one is gonna be pissed about farmed routes getting battered, especially if they are on their way out anyway. If you're down w/ 50 deg Ice, go for it, just be safe.

The Wolf Creek Pass climbing might not be such a good idea. It has been really warm, and I have heard some climbs have suffered. Ouray on the other hand should be great for a few more weeks. You could still freeze your adze off on shady routes up Camp Bird Road. Eureka ice is high altitude and in good shape-just check the avy danger. In the San Juans we climb ice until your screws fall out as you climb, or the ice melts with you on it like a gigatic warm slushie-don't be dumb, get yourself some!

Wolf Creek Pass is in generally sorry condition as of 16 Feb. All S. facing stuff on both sides of the pass are out and so is Treasure Falls. However, there are 2 great places with good ice as long as you don't mind a little snow shoe slog. The High T area on the East side of the pass is looking good and is a good bet for a while. Cross the river via the bridge across from the actual chain-up area. No parking here so park at the picnic area and walk back down the road to it. The Alpha Male/Sheeps Clothing area on the West side looks incredibly fat and is always a good time from early to late season. Park across the road from the upper runaway truck ramp (level w/climbs) and drop to the creek, climb up to the bench above the climbs and coutour in above them. This will be deep snow and a bit of a slog.

Hope you have fun whatever you do!

-Jesse

Can anyone tell me the ice is still really good in Ouray for this upcoming weekend? (2-23,24, & 25) I need some reassurance if I have to drive through another shitstorm for 6+ hours.

Mark Nelson wrote:Can anyone tell me the ice is still really good in Ouray for this upcoming weekend? (2-23,24, & 25) I need some reassurance if I have to drive through another shitstorm for 6+ hours.

Go and enjoy yourself, the weather has cooled down a bit from what I can tell and I heard there have been cloudy days, which is the best thing for the ice. I was up in Ouray this last weekend and though I did not climb in the park (I stuck to the back country) I did stop by and checked out soem routes that I like to get on and they looked fine.

I am planning on hitting up the park this saturday and then some more back country stuff on sunday and am not sweating it. If you are not leading anything then you really need to not be sweating it. Just keep an eye out for those around you.

Oh wait, the ice is horrible don't bother. Tell all your friends!

Enjoy ;)