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The Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Wall of Winter Warmth
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Alpha-Bob S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Angle of Repose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bed Hog T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Closed Open Space T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Direct Cop Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Escutcheon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Leader of the Pack T,S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Left Side T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Mini Moe T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Mordor T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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On The Bough S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Prisoner, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Regular Route [WWW] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Slit, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route), The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dana Ernst, Jonas D'Andrea, Yvonne D'Andrea |
| Page Views: | 2,664 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Dana Ernst on Sep 9, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access now open
Details
From Rick Vermeil: they have finished construction on the Boulder Falls project, and it has been open to tourists and climbers for at least a couple years now. They have legitimized the climber access trail with signage to go up and over the barriers they created to prevent erosion on the west side of the canyon.
The Boulder Falls Trail was be closed to the public since the 2013 floods for a few years. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail was off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail were closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the landowner. Previously, climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon were trespassing.
Fortunately, with great work and cooperation, this situation seems to have been resolved peacefully.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
The Boulder Falls Trail was be closed to the public since the 2013 floods for a few years. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail was off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail were closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the landowner. Previously, climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon were trespassing.
Fortunately, with great work and cooperation, this situation seems to have been resolved peacefully.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This route was put up in honor of our friend Alicia Golembeski, who was killed on 7.22.06 while hiking near Great Sand Dunes National Monument. We miss her dearly! Alicia was an avid golfer, and on the first day that we worked on the route, we found a Titleist golf ball in the woods while walking to the top of the Wall of Winter Warmth. Alicia regularly wore a Titleist visor and would only play with Titleist golf balls. Hence the name.
"The Titleist" climbs up the right side of the Wall of Winter Warmth in 2 pitches. The climb starts between the routes "Direct" and "Regular Route", climbs straight up to and through a V-notch in the roof above, and then climbs the slab between "Direct" and "Right Side." Here are the details.
Pitch 1 (5.11, 100 feet, gear and bolts): The route starts on "Regular Route." Climb the first 20 feet or so of that route (or traverse in from the right). At the first ledge of "Regular Route" there is a small bush. From here, climb up a overhanging tooth (see photos), and STAY RIGHT on the slab above (don't go left on easy terrain or you'll have difficulty coming back). Clip 2 bolts on the right edge of the slab, then easy climbing leads to a small roof. Place small gear under the roof, pull the roof, and climb up past 2 more bolts into a shallow seam. Don't get suckered left here. Place small gear in the seam, and then head up to the right edge of the next roof. To get to the right edge of this roof, either climb straight up the seam (a little dirty and hard) or step right on easy terrain and then traverse back left to the right edge of the roof. If going the easy way (which is what we did on the FFA), it may be difficult to see the next bolt, which is a foot above the lip of the roof, so don't climb too high. Once the bolt is clipped, pull around the right edge of the roof. Next, head straight up towards the giant V-notch roof (easy terrain, but may feel a bit run out). Place small gear in the crack that turns into the V-notch. Take a deep breath, and reach out to the left side of the V-notch, poke your head over, and look for a bolt to the left (just over the lip; you can't see it right away, but it's exactly where you want it). Clip the bolt, and then, as gracefully as possible, mantel over the roof (crux) and climb up to a 2 bolt anchor. The crux is difficult to aid and a few have said that 5.11- is a sandbag...give it a go and you decide.
Pitch 2 (5.10-, 90 feet, 1 piece of gear and bolts): Head up and left to a flake and place small gear. Mantel up and over the flake and then step right to clip a bolt. Climb STRAIGHT UP from here, grabbing cool jugs, clipping a few bolts as you go. At several points on this pitch, it would be easy to climb left or right to one of the other crack routes, but no bolt is any where near the cracks. Avoid temptation to stray from the bolt line. Eventually, the jugs disappear. At this point, climb up to a horizontal row of edges. Traverse slightly left (or go straight up) and eventually layback the small arete that forms the right edge of the route "Direct." If you wish, place a #0.75 Camalot in the crack after the arete disappears, and then step back right onto the slab. Climb up past 2 more bolts and eventually up to a 2 bolt anchor. The goal for this pitch was to stay as far away from "Direct" and "Right Side" as possible. Only at one point would avoiding the left crack route be contrived. This is the place where you layback the arete. The rating of this pitch is intended to be more consistent with the other ratings on the wall.
From the top of pitch 2, either rap the route, or climb a 3rd easy pitch (5.4, gear) to the top of the wall. If you go to the top of the wall and wish to return to the bottom, please don't descend the gully to the right of the Wall of Winter Warmth. Hikers, fishermen, and sunbathers hang out at the bottom of this gully and it is easy to send rather large blocks down. A better descent would be to scramble down the 4th class ramp on the left side of the wall that ends at the large tree at the top of the first pitch of "Left Side". Rap from the tree. This option is faster anyway.
"The Titleist" climbs up the right side of the Wall of Winter Warmth in 2 pitches. The climb starts between the routes "Direct" and "Regular Route", climbs straight up to and through a V-notch in the roof above, and then climbs the slab between "Direct" and "Right Side." Here are the details.
Pitch 1 (5.11, 100 feet, gear and bolts): The route starts on "Regular Route." Climb the first 20 feet or so of that route (or traverse in from the right). At the first ledge of "Regular Route" there is a small bush. From here, climb up a overhanging tooth (see photos), and STAY RIGHT on the slab above (don't go left on easy terrain or you'll have difficulty coming back). Clip 2 bolts on the right edge of the slab, then easy climbing leads to a small roof. Place small gear under the roof, pull the roof, and climb up past 2 more bolts into a shallow seam. Don't get suckered left here. Place small gear in the seam, and then head up to the right edge of the next roof. To get to the right edge of this roof, either climb straight up the seam (a little dirty and hard) or step right on easy terrain and then traverse back left to the right edge of the roof. If going the easy way (which is what we did on the FFA), it may be difficult to see the next bolt, which is a foot above the lip of the roof, so don't climb too high. Once the bolt is clipped, pull around the right edge of the roof. Next, head straight up towards the giant V-notch roof (easy terrain, but may feel a bit run out). Place small gear in the crack that turns into the V-notch. Take a deep breath, and reach out to the left side of the V-notch, poke your head over, and look for a bolt to the left (just over the lip; you can't see it right away, but it's exactly where you want it). Clip the bolt, and then, as gracefully as possible, mantel over the roof (crux) and climb up to a 2 bolt anchor. The crux is difficult to aid and a few have said that 5.11- is a sandbag...give it a go and you decide.
Pitch 2 (5.10-, 90 feet, 1 piece of gear and bolts): Head up and left to a flake and place small gear. Mantel up and over the flake and then step right to clip a bolt. Climb STRAIGHT UP from here, grabbing cool jugs, clipping a few bolts as you go. At several points on this pitch, it would be easy to climb left or right to one of the other crack routes, but no bolt is any where near the cracks. Avoid temptation to stray from the bolt line. Eventually, the jugs disappear. At this point, climb up to a horizontal row of edges. Traverse slightly left (or go straight up) and eventually layback the small arete that forms the right edge of the route "Direct." If you wish, place a #0.75 Camalot in the crack after the arete disappears, and then step back right onto the slab. Climb up past 2 more bolts and eventually up to a 2 bolt anchor. The goal for this pitch was to stay as far away from "Direct" and "Right Side" as possible. Only at one point would avoiding the left crack route be contrived. This is the place where you layback the arete. The rating of this pitch is intended to be more consistent with the other ratings on the wall.
From the top of pitch 2, either rap the route, or climb a 3rd easy pitch (5.4, gear) to the top of the wall. If you go to the top of the wall and wish to return to the bottom, please don't descend the gully to the right of the Wall of Winter Warmth. Hikers, fishermen, and sunbathers hang out at the bottom of this gully and it is easy to send rather large blocks down. A better descent would be to scramble down the 4th class ramp on the left side of the wall that ends at the large tree at the top of the first pitch of "Left Side". Rap from the tree. This option is faster anyway.
Location
"The Titleist" climbs straight up the right side of the Wall of Winter Warmth. The climb is between "Direct" on the left and "Regular Route" and "Right Side" on the right. Start on "Regular Route" and veer left at the overhanging tooth after 20 feet or so. The crux of the route tackles the giant V-notch in the roof above.
There are 2 approaches to the Wall of Winter Warmth.
1. Park at Upper Dream Canyon and then traverse towards the top of the wall by avoiding private property. Eventually, you will pick up a trail. Recently, there was a cairn with a stick in it along this trail. At this cairn, head downhill toward the top of the Berlin Wall and the (climber's) left side of the WWW. Rack up and scramble down the 4th class ledge system to a large tree that marks the end of pitch 1 of "Left Side." Rap from the tree and walk right toward another large tree. If you know where you are going, this takes 15 minutes.
2. Park at Lower Boulder Falls and teleport yourself to the base of the WWW.
There are 2 approaches to the Wall of Winter Warmth.
1. Park at Upper Dream Canyon and then traverse towards the top of the wall by avoiding private property. Eventually, you will pick up a trail. Recently, there was a cairn with a stick in it along this trail. At this cairn, head downhill toward the top of the Berlin Wall and the (climber's) left side of the WWW. Rack up and scramble down the 4th class ledge system to a large tree that marks the end of pitch 1 of "Left Side." Rap from the tree and walk right toward another large tree. If you know where you are going, this takes 15 minutes.
2. Park at Lower Boulder Falls and teleport yourself to the base of the WWW.
Protection
The 1st pitch has 6 bolts and requires several pieces of gear, mostly small Aliens. The 2nd pitch has 7 bolts and requires a couple of small to medium pieces of gear. Doubles of blue through yellow Aliens and Camalots up to a #3 should make you happy. If you skip the start of "Regular Route" by traversing in from the right, you can leave the #2 and #3 Camalots in your pack.
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