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Anonymous climber on the last pitch.

Id# 105916336,  Dimensions: 833 x 625 - View full size 
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 11, 2008
By Tyson S Arp
Feb 8, 2007

Love this shot, Brad! A0 at it's finest!

By Ben Kiessel
Feb 9, 2007

Anonymous? Come on Brad. There is nothing to be ashamed of. That is why people place angles in the desert instead of bolts isn't it? The best foot holds I've ever had were Black Diamond angles.

By Brad Brandewie
Feb 13, 2007

Ben, I'm not sure what you're talking about. I shot this with an extreme telephoto from the FFA of Zenyatta, which I was free soloing barefoot and naked. You know that I free climb everything!

By Ben Kiessel
Feb 14, 2007

My bad Brad, I could have sworn... well whatever, as long as you've got an alibi.

I heard about your sick FFA of Zenyatta. What did it go at? I heard the last pitch was pretty chill like .13c with hooks taped in place for pro. Please tell me you taped on lead, I hate it when people pre place taped hooks for their free attempts. Good thing that rock is bomber, other wise I don't know if I would trust those hooks for a leader fall.

I totally understand the naked barefoot climbing, I just can't connect with the rock spiritually if I have all that stuff on. Plus with the raven spirit inside me it feels like I'm flying.

By Ben Kiessel
Feb 23, 2007

hey brad,
Good thing you did that free ascent before the hooking pitch got retro-bolted. I was going to go up there and try to repeat the freeness but now I don't think it's worth my time. I mean seriously that hike is like 50 yards. I'll see you at potash.

By David Arthur Sampson
Jun 13, 2008

Are you serious? In my worst day I do not stand on bolts or anchors. Perhaps you should consider climbing at your level.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 13, 2008

"Perhaps you should consider climbing at your level."

Are you serious? So you're suggesting people don't attempt The Nose, Salathe or Zodiac unless they can climb 5.13? What a condescending attitude - see guideline #1.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jun 13, 2008

" In my worst day I do not stand on bolts or anchors."

I"d say that shows a lack of experience in this climbing environment.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 13, 2008

David Arthur Sampson, did you free the bolt ladder on Eagle Dance?

By Ben Kiessel
Jun 14, 2008

Dave, I stood on those killer foot holds also and Brad and I both forgive you for being a jerk. We understand that you were probably in a bad mood when you wrote this because you have a small penis. I feel your pain I also have a small penis and am often in a bad mood because of it. Brad on the other hand had a huge dick and is quite a jolly fellow.

Peace and Love,
Ben

By Ben Folsom
Jun 15, 2008

I usually only try to stand on or pull on fixed gear when my partner is way out of view so nobody knows. :)

By rpc
Jun 16, 2008

For me, manteling from these belay bolts onto the next bolt was the crux of this route!

By David Arthur Sampson
Jul 10, 2008

um, I had not visited my comment until today; so much hostility, directed at me.

Andrew: yes, I used the bolt ladder on Eagle Dance. So, you are telling me that standing on the hangers at this belay for this climb is a form of aiding, and that one cannot (reasonably) do the first few moves without standing on these hangers?

Admittedly, I have not been on this climb. What grade does this climb become if you do not stand on the hangers? If the grade increases significantly, then I stand corrected.

If one has been on Eagle Dance, you know how difficult it would be to free the bolt ladder section.

Sam: Because I do not stand on hangers I have a lack of experience... um, now that is a compelling argument.

Ben: Brad may be a wonderful fellow. I do not know him. I am sure he probably is. But, what does the fact that you, and he, and perhaps Andrew stand on hangers have to do with me choosing to not stand on hangers?

Perhaps my comment was a bit strong. And perhaps most need to stand on those hangers in order to move past that belay. If that is the case, I stand corrected. I was not trying to be a jerk.

My comment was more about ethics than aiding. To me, standing on a hanger means: 1) the climb is too difficult for me to do, or 2) established as a known aid, the "typical" climber needs to aid past that section of the climb (in this case by standing on hangers). Simple.

I should think that the kind response to my comment would have been something like: "hey man, the grade changes to a 12 if you do not stand on the hangers at that belay".

EDIT: It appears that I over-stepped (and fell off my high horse); if mike thrashed on in, I probably would not even attempt this climb.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jul 11, 2008

Hey David
"So, you are telling me that standing on the hangers at this belay for this climb is a form of aiding, and that one cannot (reasonably) do the first few moves without standing on these hangers?"
See, my comment still stands. Yes. Standing on hangers in the desert is aid and is commonly done. This ladder was probablyeven put in that way. Also, free climbing here changes season to season due to the softness of the rock. ONe mans edge is another mans smear is the next guys color change.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 11, 2008

I've had bomber looking 8" wide ledges i've been standing on on Entrada sandstone blow off - and taken big falls because of it. I've also had bolts pull out from nothing but pressure from rope drag in Entrada. This stuff is nothing like Red Rocks, and you would do well to try climbing something similar before bagging on someone who climbs there as much as Brad does.

Besides, if you pulled on bolts on Eagle Dance, you have no room to talk about not standing on hangers on your very worst day. You did much worse - you pulled on a bunch of them in a row.

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Anonymous climber on the last pitch.

Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Feb 5, 2007
On this route:
West Face (5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c )