My bad Brad, I could have sworn... well whatever, as long as you've got an alibi.
I heard about your sick FFA of Zenyatta. What did it go at? I heard the last pitch was pretty chill like .13c with hooks taped in place for pro. Please tell me you taped on lead, I hate it when people pre place taped hooks for their free attempts. Good thing that rock is bomber, other wise I don't know if I would trust those hooks for a leader fall.
I totally understand the naked barefoot climbing, I just can't connect with the rock spiritually if I have all that stuff on. Plus with the raven spirit inside me it feels like I'm flying.
hey brad, Good thing you did that free ascent before the hooking pitch got retro-bolted. I was going to go up there and try to repeat the freeness but now I don't think it's worth my time. I mean seriously that hike is like 50 yards. I'll see you at potash.
Dave, I stood on those killer foot holds also and Brad and I both forgive you for being a jerk. We understand that you were probably in a bad mood when you wrote this because you have a small penis. I feel your pain I also have a small penis and am often in a bad mood because of it. Brad on the other hand had a huge dick and is quite a jolly fellow.
um, I had not visited my comment until today; so much hostility, directed at me.
Andrew: yes, I used the bolt ladder on Eagle Dance. So, you are telling me that standing on the hangers at this belay for this climb is a form of aiding, and that one cannot (reasonably) do the first few moves without standing on these hangers?
Admittedly, I have not been on this climb. What grade does this climb become if you do not stand on the hangers? If the grade increases significantly, then I stand corrected.
If one has been on Eagle Dance, you know how difficult it would be to free the bolt ladder section.
Sam: Because I do not stand on hangers I have a lack of experience... um, now that is a compelling argument.
Ben: Brad may be a wonderful fellow. I do not know him. I am sure he probably is. But, what does the fact that you, and he, and perhaps Andrew stand on hangers have to do with me choosing to not stand on hangers?
Perhaps my comment was a bit strong. And perhaps most need to stand on those hangers in order to move past that belay. If that is the case, I stand corrected. I was not trying to be a jerk.
My comment was more about ethics than aiding. To me, standing on a hanger means: 1) the climb is too difficult for me to do, or 2) established as a known aid, the "typical" climber needs to aid past that section of the climb (in this case by standing on hangers). Simple.
I should think that the kind response to my comment would have been something like: "hey man, the grade changes to a 12 if you do not stand on the hangers at that belay".
EDIT: It appears that I over-stepped (and fell off my high horse); if mike thrashed on in, I probably would not even attempt this climb.
Hey David "So, you are telling me that standing on the hangers at this belay for this climb is a form of aiding, and that one cannot (reasonably) do the first few moves without standing on these hangers?" See, my comment still stands. Yes. Standing on hangers in the desert is aid and is commonly done. This ladder was probablyeven put in that way. Also, free climbing here changes season to season due to the softness of the rock. ONe mans edge is another mans smear is the next guys color change.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 11, 2008
I've had bomber looking 8" wide ledges i've been standing on on Entrada sandstone blow off - and taken big falls because of it. I've also had bolts pull out from nothing but pressure from rope drag in Entrada. This stuff is nothing like Red Rocks, and you would do well to try climbing something similar before bagging on someone who climbs there as much as Brad does.
Besides, if you pulled on bolts on Eagle Dance, you have no room to talk about not standing on hangers on your very worst day. You did much worse - you pulled on a bunch of them in a row.