Red Rocks Must Do Climbs?

I'm looking to head down to Red Rocks in mid-late January for a 4 day climbing trip. I current lead trad around 5.7 - 5.8 and can lead sport a little higher.

I don't know much about the area (I'm heading there because I think this is the best place to get some rock climbing in January). I've been looking at the routes on the site and I see Frogland and Bourbon St that look really fun.

Can anyone recommend any classic "must dos" in the 5.7 to 5.8 range?

Thanks.

I am a 5.7-5.8 leader as well and I really liked Olive Oil 5.7 on Rose Tower and Group Therapy 5.7 and if it's warm - Lotta Balls 5.8.

Frogland, without a doubt!

Red Rocks should be good in January. Obviously south facing routes will be the best on cold windy days. You have to do DARK SHADOWS. One of the best routes of its grade in Red Rocks at 5.8. Supposedly grade IV if you go all the way to the top. The top pitches are 5.9ish and not half as good as the bottom 4. So do the first 4 pitches and rap the route with two ropes. Awesome climbing through some really interesting rock (Desert Varnish that feels like climbing on marble). Follows an exciting corner system up under a large roof system. Great exposure at the last belay. The approach is awesome, you go through a beautiful canyon with pools of water. The route starts out of one of these pools thus making it logistically hard to not get your rope wet on the rappel. Awesome climbing! check out the photos on the web. -- If you are feeling saucy you might climb the first 4 pitches of Ginger Cracks. A 5.9 but feels more 5.8+. Great climbing. Rap with doubles. You can also finish it out but requires less esthetically climbing above and a long hanging rappel sequence down the opposite side of the formation. Push yourself while you are in the Rocks, the ratings are sometimes soft! Go for some 5.10s in Black Velvet Canyon!!! SICK! SEND BRO! YO you must do Dark Shadows! Skip Frogland if its a toss between stuff, unless u r doing the 5.10 finish. I have lots more ideas for you... Check out some routes with harder ratings, many have great moderate starting pitches with hard lines above, just rap off before the hard shit or just pull on gear. There's no harm in pulling on a few pieces to get through a hard move or ten!! yeah! You didn't free it but you got to climb it, and you can always lower at the top of a pitch and climb it on TR. Good way to bump up your ability level. If you want a great 1 pitch wonder to push yourself on, go do Straight Shooter, sick splitter finger crack. Great gear! ----Ben

There's lots of "must do" climbs in Red Rock, but this one is #1 for the grade!

Purblind Pillar

thanks for your input, I'll definitely be adding most of these to the my list (time permitting).

Also, I'm guessing that the best place to stay/eat will be some off-strip places in Vegas??? Any suggestion on these?

Birdland is quite possibly the best 5.7 in the country.

josh

J. Thompson wrote:Birdland is quite possibly the best 5.7 in the country. josh

We really liked the pitches we climbed. Having bolted rap station/belays speeds up things, too.

vegastradguy wrote:you folks tryin to kill the guy? every route listed above (except Olive Oil) is shady this time of year...

I would think that most climbers from Colorado can handle the coldest days in Red Rock, just like we can manage climbing on 108+ degree days in desert regions. : )

Check out this last January in Red Rock. I swear it felt like summer!

Re; Purblind Pillar. I'm an average climber, and we got the route done fairly quickly before the route caught shade. Just start early (Be at the base by 7-ish)

Were you going shirtless that day, Gigette? ;) hmmm.....

I was climbing at the Red (River Gorge) a week and a half ago...morning temps were 17 degrees, but we managed to find some sun on south facing routes, and were quite comfortable in the sun with afternoon temps in the 40s. It depends on your tolerance, but climbing in the sun on a cold day for me beats climbing in the shade on a slightly warmer day.

Last Saturday, we had near record highs of 65 degrees...we climbed at the Red in T-shirts (we could have been shirtless like Gigette!) in December...incredible!

And, I have climbed at Red Rocks in the winter. I prefer the sunny routes at that time of year (Solar Slab, Panty Wall, etc), but anything is do-able depending on how cold tolerant you are. I definitely would not suggest Epinephrine at that time of year...way too cold and far too little daylight!

Last January at Red Rock saw temperatures 20 degrees above normal for at least a week ... let's hope for more of the same this year?

Matt, shirtless does not equal topless. Your eyes are starting to get dim!

Jim Matt wrote:Were you going shirtless that day, Gigette? ;) hmmm.....

Jim.... Jonny tends to drag my ass up Joe Herbst offwidths, squeeze chimneys, and adventure routes, for our hot dates. It wouldn't be in my best interest, or his, if I'm overexposed while climbing. Now the top-off, I mean top-out.....now that's a different story. ; )

Doug Hemken wrote:Matt, shirtless does not equal topless. Your eyes are starting to get dim!

Jim please (Matt is my last name). And you might be right...I tend to see/hear things I only want to see or hear. Consequences of turning 40 this year, I guess!

Gigette Miller wrote:Now the top-off, I mean top-out.....now that's a different story. ; )

Now that is what I like to hear.. :)

You know, there is a route that follows the thread of this discussion:

mountainproject.com/v/nevad…

Chad Kline wrote:I'm looking to head down to Red Rocks in mid-late January for a 4 day climbing trip. I current lead trad around 5.7 - 5.8 and can lead sport a little higher. I don't know much about the area (I'm heading there because I think this is the best place to get some rock climbing in January). I've been looking at the routes on the site and I see Frogland and Bourbon St that look really fun. Can anyone recommend any classic "must dos" in the 5.7 to 5.8 range? Thanks.

Yes. Do Crimson Crysalis. It says the first four pitches is crack climbing, however there are enough holds to climb the face and use the crack for holds and protection. Once the crack runs out the remaining climb is face with tons of bolts. Rap the route. two ropes. I think that this is one of the best 5.8 climbs anywere.

Chad Kline wrote:thanks for your input, I'll definitely be adding most of these to the my list (time permitting). Also, I'm guessing that the best place to stay/eat will be some off-strip places in Vegas??? Any suggestion on these?

I stay at the super 8 just across from the MGM. The Rio has a great buffet. What ever you do, do not leave anything in your car if you park on the loop road. Cars get broken into all the time. Not by kids, but by professional thieves.

Charlie Perry wrote: Yes. Do Crimson Crysalis.

The only downside would be that is a north facing route... and at that time of year, potentially quite chilly. But the crowds probably would not be a problem...

Consider climbing the first pitch of Ragged Edges 5.8 and TR'ing Plan F, if you are looking for a short session.

Agreed, Ragged Edges is way cool (although it, too is in the shade most of the day). Tons of pro and a great route. If you have a couple of #4 Camalots, you can do the second pitch...but the first pitch is stellar.

Anything on Solar Slab Wall should be really nice at that time of year.

thanks again, for everybody's input. there are tons of suggestions so I'll be well prepared. I've found it is great to ask those "in the know" as opposed to trying to figure it out on my own.

i agree with tradguy, find the sun, you can freeze in colorado all year, you might as well have fun in the sun while you are here. i remember trying to climb the magic triangle (shade) in feb or march last year freezing my ass off and looking across pine creek to the brass wall (sunny) at chicks hanging out in sports bras and short shorts. so, it's your choice...sun or shade.

Andrew Gomoll wrote:chicks hanging out in sports bras and short shorts

how can I resist?? sunny walls it is