Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 13 votes
Type: | Trad |
FA: | Chris Kessler & Karl Kiser (or Walt Wehner, Theo Takeda, Alisa Green, 2000, maybe also climbed earlier?) |
Page Views: | 2,338 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
A really nice trad route up the beautiful crack on the left side of the wall. Can be done either by going up into the gully and traversing right into the route. There is also a more difficult to protect start that starts directly at the bottom of the crack. Belayer can anchor into bolts at the left end of the gully, way left of the crack.
Location
See climb 10 on Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto. 8 - [[105832864]] 9 - [[105890940]] 10 - [[105824886]] 11 - [[105890946]] Courtesy of Rick Bradshaw, author of online guide: losalamos.com/diablo/defaul…. . The yellow dots show the way. Smaller yellow dots show the easier to protect variation.
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