Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Checkerboard Wall
|
Checkmate T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Circus Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Cross-trainer T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Green Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
King Me T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Knight's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Lone Piton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Opening Moves T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Pawn's Promotion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Punch In The Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Queen's Gambit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Red Squares T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Ring Leader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Ring Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Sotol Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Worth the Effort T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,959 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Nov 17, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This is another Un-named route that I have dubbed. It is on several old topos for the Checkerboard as one of the more prominent first pitch variations. What makes it nice is that it is easy to recognize, and offers a fixed anchor midway up tha wall. It also has good rock (except for the start which is flaky), fun moves, and a beautiful and easy off-width portion. The crux move is getting into the offwidth.
The climb follows the wide crack and traverses right under a roof or two. After one such traverse, there is a prominent and attractive off-width which cleaves a smooth slab (about 20 ft long). Optionally you can continue traversing right passing some old poot slings, and climb a chimney variation (with a big tree in it).
OPTIONAL - the full four-pitch "B" variation:
What makes this route nice is that it is easy to recognize, has good rock (except for the start which is flaky), a beautiful and easy off-width portion, and a short chimney section at the top.
5.8, PG13
P1: 30 meters, 5.6. Lead past / around right of three roofs. About when the V crack comes into view, veer right to shallow cracks leading up to hanging belay (ignore old slings).
P2: 35 meters, 5.7 PG13. Start up the V crack (crux), continue up and then step right and up into a vegetated area. Cross right onto a slab and then up roughly another 30 feet to a belay ledge with a good horizontal crack immediately above the ledge. This last 30 feet is difficult to protect, perhaps offering just one or two distant protection points.
P3: 35 meters, 5.7. This pitch is easier to protect than it appears. Head up the slab the easiest way, eventually passing a bolted belay beneath a thin ~8 foot vertical crack (crux). Continue up and into a huge grassy alcove left of a big green bush.
P4: ~55 meters, 5.8. Lead directly up the major crack / chimney system. Exit left at the roof above. Alternately, one can exit left about 20 feet below the roof ~5.8 either way. Find a broad / tall flake on the left and head up to the summit. Breaking this into two pitches may be wise for communication and/or rope drag.
Protection: Standard rack plus double up (about 6 pieces) in the range of 2 to 4 inches. Some hexes in this range are nice. A 4 inch cam works well at the advertised crux in the topo.
The climb follows the wide crack and traverses right under a roof or two. After one such traverse, there is a prominent and attractive off-width which cleaves a smooth slab (about 20 ft long). Optionally you can continue traversing right passing some old poot slings, and climb a chimney variation (with a big tree in it).
OPTIONAL - the full four-pitch "B" variation:
What makes this route nice is that it is easy to recognize, has good rock (except for the start which is flaky), a beautiful and easy off-width portion, and a short chimney section at the top.
5.8, PG13
P1: 30 meters, 5.6. Lead past / around right of three roofs. About when the V crack comes into view, veer right to shallow cracks leading up to hanging belay (ignore old slings).
P2: 35 meters, 5.7 PG13. Start up the V crack (crux), continue up and then step right and up into a vegetated area. Cross right onto a slab and then up roughly another 30 feet to a belay ledge with a good horizontal crack immediately above the ledge. This last 30 feet is difficult to protect, perhaps offering just one or two distant protection points.
P3: 35 meters, 5.7. This pitch is easier to protect than it appears. Head up the slab the easiest way, eventually passing a bolted belay beneath a thin ~8 foot vertical crack (crux). Continue up and into a huge grassy alcove left of a big green bush.
P4: ~55 meters, 5.8. Lead directly up the major crack / chimney system. Exit left at the roof above. Alternately, one can exit left about 20 feet below the roof ~5.8 either way. Find a broad / tall flake on the left and head up to the summit. Breaking this into two pitches may be wise for communication and/or rope drag.
Protection: Standard rack plus double up (about 6 pieces) in the range of 2 to 4 inches. Some hexes in this range are nice. A 4 inch cam works well at the advertised crux in the topo.
Location
The middle of the Checkerboard wall has a large protruding buttress. This climb starts on the right side of this buttress in a large crack with two roof sections jutting out. From the belay ledge, a double rope rap can reach the ground, or continue up other variations to the summit.
Protection
Standard rack, with a few large pieces, especially for the off-sidth section. the off-width crack can be climbed without a large piece by protecting at the crux move with a bomber nut, and then running out the rope for 20 ft on easier terrain. The belay ledge has plenty of loose rock, and has one old 1/4" bolt, as well as some poot-slings for fixed gear.
2 Comments