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Bat Crack on The Vampire (5.11a), Tahquitz Rock

Id# 105887565,  Dimensions: 995 x 1500 - View full size 
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By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Jul 29, 2007

I'm curious why Todd carrying another set of climbing shoes?
I have found that the crux on P3 is very shoe-dependent -- did he change shoes for the crux?

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 6, 2008

What's the name of the bolted lead to the climber's right?

By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 7, 2008

The bolts to the right are on The Count (5.11+ A0).

By dnaiscool
Mar 6, 2014

This shot is from the ledge at the start of "The Cheat" way to begin The Vampire. Maybe Todd led the crack below, and kudos if he did, because if you do not climb the Vampire from its base...well...better head on back, because adding that section changes the climb significantly. Todd is in the perfect hands, but this pinches down, and the feet get glassier as he moves up. The .10c crux above is moving into the wide crack, and the lone bolt on this pitch is found to the right, just below where the crack widens. If you do the climb from the base, you may have taken on a good pump by this point, and that adds spice to the rest of the pitch. Starting fresh here makes what lay ahead a lot easier, but the climb is fantastic either way...one of the best medium length free climbs one will ever do.

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Bat Crack on The Vampire (5.11a), Tahquitz Rock

Submitted By: tony grice on Nov 16, 2006
On this route:
The Vampire (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c )