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Id# 105887564, 1760 x 1168px View full size
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By dnaiscool
Mar 6, 2014
This climber sent the tricky little "five-crimp to a reach with a wide stem on slopers" 5.11a second pitch crux, and is now fully engaged with the awesome "Balogna Slicer" section that ticks in at 5.9. The feet are positive, the lip is magic, and the exposure here is beyond description...you are Off The Deck, and you feel the air here! The "down Mantle" at the end of this pitch is sort of a really easy "reverse" to the "up mantle" that ends the first pitch, which is sort of cool. If you need to rap off the top of the second pitch, better have a 70m, and do not forget that big honkin knot on the end of the rope, because in to quite a swing to return to the bolt nest at the end of the first pitch. If the weather looks bad, then pre-set a "grab sling" on the far left bolt at that belay, because doing that will ensure your ability to return to the stance.
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Submitted By: tony grice on Nov 16, 2006
On this route:
The Vampire (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c )
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