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Deer Creek Crag Climbing
Routes in Deer Creek Crag
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Heart Shaped Box Boulder V2-3 5+ |
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Highwayman, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Horseshoes and Handgrenades TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jugular V3 6A |
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Metallica Monday V8 7B |
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Paper Planes V7 7A+ PG13 |
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Pimp Chimp's Crimp, The V4 6B |
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Random V6 V6 7A |
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Road Less Traveled, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Unknown aka The Pump and The Pendulum S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Variety Show TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Westside Connection, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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| Elevation: | 6,439 ft |
| GPS: |
39.53968, -105.18119 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 34,026 total · 140/month |
| Shared By: | tobi p on May 16, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Private Property, please ask for permission to climb!
Details
This may be private property, and the landowner does not want climbers on the rock.
Per todd k: this message is for the group that climbed on this crag the week before August 8th, 2018. Thanks to you trespassing and stealing the posted signs, the crag is 100% closed. I posted it, because people were leaving cigarette butts and trash at it, but I would let people climb if they asked permission.
If you trespass again, I will press charges, but I would hope you would reflect on your actions and revamp your choices in the future. Your actions directly impact the climbing community and others who you share a rope with!
Per todd k: this message is for the group that climbed on this crag the week before August 8th, 2018. Thanks to you trespassing and stealing the posted signs, the crag is 100% closed. I posted it, because people were leaving cigarette butts and trash at it, but I would let people climb if they asked permission.
If you trespass again, I will press charges, but I would hope you would reflect on your actions and revamp your choices in the future. Your actions directly impact the climbing community and others who you share a rope with!
Description
This is a burly little roadside crag just up from Deer Creek Canyon (Jeffco Open Space, sw of Denver). There are three sets of chain anchors allowing you to toprope all climbs and variations, but the far right climb is bolted as well, and other climbs could be lead traditionally. Rock quality is sketchy in places, however, especially on the left side. The walk up to the anchors is to the left. The crag is 35/40 feet tall at the most. The rock is gneiss, I think, not unlike what you'll find in Clear Creek.
The climbing is rigorous and challenging--11s and 12s. There's some bouldering to be had as well. This is basically a local after-work crag, not necessarily worth the drive if you're closer to Clear Creek or Boulder, but certainly fun if you're in the area or want to sample something new.
All three main climbs are good and worth a go, and there is definitely room for improvised variations.
L->R:
Heart Shaped Box Boulder, V2-3, 10'.
Jugular, V3.
Random V6, V6, 15'.
A1. Variety Show, 11, 1p, TR.
A2. Horseshoes and Handgrenades, 11+, 1p, TR.
B. The Road Less Traveled, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Paper Planes, V7 PG-13, 20'.
D. Unknown aka The Pump and The Pendulum, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
E1. The Westside Connection, 14-, 1p, 25', bolts.
E2. The Highwayman, 13+, 1p, 30', bolts.
The climbing is rigorous and challenging--11s and 12s. There's some bouldering to be had as well. This is basically a local after-work crag, not necessarily worth the drive if you're closer to Clear Creek or Boulder, but certainly fun if you're in the area or want to sample something new.
All three main climbs are good and worth a go, and there is definitely room for improvised variations.
L->R:
Heart Shaped Box Boulder, V2-3, 10'.
Jugular, V3.
Random V6, V6, 15'.
A1. Variety Show, 11, 1p, TR.
A2. Horseshoes and Handgrenades, 11+, 1p, TR.
B. The Road Less Traveled, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Paper Planes, V7 PG-13, 20'.
D. Unknown aka The Pump and The Pendulum, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
E1. The Westside Connection, 14-, 1p, 25', bolts.
E2. The Highwayman, 13+, 1p, 30', bolts.
Getting There
From west Denver: Take C-470 south past the Morrison and 285 exits to the Ken Caryl exit. Take a right at the light and drive through the hogback (you'll see signs for Ken Caryl Valley). Stay left through the next light (the road is now called South Valley Rd.) and head through the third light as well. Drive on till you come to a T (there are some nice sandstone formations on your left, but climbing is off-limits), take a left here, then a right at the second T. You're now on the Deer Creek Canyon road heading into the mountains.
or, from Highlands Ranch and places to the south: Take C-470 west/north to the Wadsworth exit. Turn left/south as if going to Chatfield Reservoir, then first right after going under C-40. This road becomes Deer Creek Canyon Rd: take three miles west...
Once on Deer Creek Canyon Rd., pass the brown signs for Deer Creek Canyon (the open space park); stay on the main (windy) road for another two miles. The overhanging crag is right there on the road side on your right with a pullout in front of it. If you get to a strange little place called Phillipsburg you've just passed it.
or, from Highlands Ranch and places to the south: Take C-470 west/north to the Wadsworth exit. Turn left/south as if going to Chatfield Reservoir, then first right after going under C-40. This road becomes Deer Creek Canyon Rd: take three miles west...
Once on Deer Creek Canyon Rd., pass the brown signs for Deer Creek Canyon (the open space park); stay on the main (windy) road for another two miles. The overhanging crag is right there on the road side on your right with a pullout in front of it. If you get to a strange little place called Phillipsburg you've just passed it.
Classic Climbing Routes at Deer Creek Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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