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NM road trip

Original Post
GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I am going through New Mexico on my way to San Angelo Texass for Christmas. I am planning to hit Enchanted Tower, but would like to know if there is a good, easy trad spot to hit up. My girlfriend climbs in the 5.9 range, and will be coming back from a two month service project in Mexico (read no climbing).

I looked at El Rito's trad area, is it to cold there in Dec? We both have 15f bags. Are we screwed?

Fritz Devendorf · · Santa Fe, New Mexico · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 65

The El Rito Trad area is real nice in the winter as long as there is no snow on the ground. The walls get good winter sun. With a four wheel drive you can drive up the road to the end where there is a place to car camp. Camping could be cold, right now we are getting into the 30s at night and you might expect 20s up there.
I'm hoping for lots of snow for the ski season, but it has been a real slow start so far. My partner and I just went up to Sandia Crest today; it was a beautiful day for climbing.

Stubby-Ian Howells · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 30

Tres Piedras is a sweet trad area near taos. I don't know what the weather is like there that time of year, but I would imagine the south faces to get enough sun to be warm enough. Lots of moderates, short approach...one to two pitches. If anyone knows if this sucks in the winter throw in your two cents.

Aaron Hobson · · Clinton, TN · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 3,665

The Dona Anas (near las Cruces) offer trad climbing at Southern NM temps . It's roughly the same temps here as it is in hueco, and thus we are just getting into the best climbing season now.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I borrowed a friends New Mexico and Texass falcon guide. Is it the best to use???

Anthony Stout · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 4,425

Enchanted Tower: 8,000 feet, Cold! I would not go there in December.... Especially with 15 degree bags!

We do have sun for a good percentage of the winter, so if you find a nice south facing crag you could potentially stay warm all day! The ones that I know of are Diablo Canyon (Winter Wall). Also, White Rock is South Facing and can be nice in the Winter time. Though, all of Northern New Mexico is going to be COLD at night!

I think if I were going on a road trip in December though, I would stop in Las Cruces and climb as Aaron suggested, than go to Taos and SKI!

The climbing NM and Texas guide is alright as an overview, however, the newer guide that has just New Mexico is better as it has more climbing areas.

Best of Luck!

Tony

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

thanks for all the help guys. does it get a lot colder there than southern utah? Ive been to the creek and zion a bunch, its cold but not like logan (negatives in f are common).

about skiing, i live in utah.

KevinCO · · Loveland, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 60

Would Shelf be out of the way? It is a few miles N of Canon City. At night it is cold and windy camping, but once the sun gets high enough it is windless and possible to climb in shorts and a t-shirt.

Shelf is in a 'banana belt' protected from front range storms by Pikes Peak and from storms form the west by the Sangre de Cristo Range.

Have fun!

Timothy Roehr · · Tucson,Az · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 260

Depending on which way you are traveling, you might try Cochise Stronghold here in Arizona too. That is a great time of year to climb here.

Anthony Stout · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 4,425

I would guess (but do not know) that The Tower would be colder than the creek in December, but questionable on that. Probably be about the same as Diablo or WhiteRock though. The creek is much better than both of those places combined though. So just skip white rock and diablo and go to the creek if your going that way.

Some other options have already been suggested. Cochise Stronghold would be nice. Good adventure climbing there (from what I hear) and the temps would probably be pretty decent that time of year. And of course, Las Cruces.

For some sporto climbing you could hit Jacks Canyon, which is quite nice when in the sun. Hell, depending on the amount of time you have, there is always Red Rocks.... Though it may be pretty far out of the way for you.

Oh, and about living in Utah... You have much more variety (though a shorter season) than we have here for climbing too (not just snow). I went to school in Logan, a fun place. Learned to climb on the limestone of Logan Canyon. You know Sean Damitz by chance? Good friend of mine.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Sean? Sorry no. I have lived here for just over 3 years. Logan limestone is great, it has something for everyone, within 5 minutes by car I can get to a good wall, and less than 15 to China Cave!!!
Noone climbs here, but don't tell cause we like it that way. SLC is getting crazy, I went to do Outside corner in BCC and there was a party in front and two behind us, almost as bad as Yosemite!

I really just love checking out new climbing areas, I will be going to the creek for sure, it is most definately on my way (despite a few extra hours). I am going to red rocks and J-Tree for Thanksgiving, so hopefully I'll be able to make a great trip out of my Christmas break!

Has anyone climbed at Pecos River??? We are going to San Angelo, and Pecos is only 180 miles south, it looks good but a friend from here says its over rated, but he now lives in castle valley so go figure!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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