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Routes in Texas Tower
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East Face of Texas Tower T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 |
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South Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Grade IV |
| FA: | Tim Toula & Kathy Zaiser. April 26, 1987 - FFA Bret Ruckman, Tim Coats |
| Page Views: | 9,243 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Apr 30, 2004 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Climbs the obvious crack system on the south face of the tower.
Pitch 1- Climb hands in a corner on the left side of a pillar. Above the pillar climb 5.9 loose to a belay with bolts.
Pitch 2- Climb a 5.9 squeeze slot to a handcrack above then belay at bolts.
Pitch 3- An awkward 10- move leads to a good squeeze chimney. Belay on large ledge with bolt.
Pitch 4- Climb over blocks in chimney then make a stem move and hand traverse right to a good hand crack. Climb the handcrack past a scary loose spot to a good ledge with bolts. 5.10
Pitch 5- Start with 5.10+ fists and into steep offwidth above. This is a long steep pitch with three bolts. Lots of big gear needed.
Pitch 6- Climb a 5.10 offwidth to the top of a pillar and a piton, then 100' of 5.9 chimney to a belay bolt.
Pitch 7- Climb 200 ft of chimney past a fixed piece to a belay at bolts. 5.9
Pitch 8- Make a 5.10 face move then easier climbing leads to the summit.
Descent- Rappel anchors are found on the opposite side of the tower than where you top out. rap fixed anchors to the ground.
Pitch 1- Climb hands in a corner on the left side of a pillar. Above the pillar climb 5.9 loose to a belay with bolts.
Pitch 2- Climb a 5.9 squeeze slot to a handcrack above then belay at bolts.
Pitch 3- An awkward 10- move leads to a good squeeze chimney. Belay on large ledge with bolt.
Pitch 4- Climb over blocks in chimney then make a stem move and hand traverse right to a good hand crack. Climb the handcrack past a scary loose spot to a good ledge with bolts. 5.10
Pitch 5- Start with 5.10+ fists and into steep offwidth above. This is a long steep pitch with three bolts. Lots of big gear needed.
Pitch 6- Climb a 5.10 offwidth to the top of a pillar and a piton, then 100' of 5.9 chimney to a belay bolt.
Pitch 7- Climb 200 ft of chimney past a fixed piece to a belay at bolts. 5.9
Pitch 8- Make a 5.10 face move then easier climbing leads to the summit.
Descent- Rappel anchors are found on the opposite side of the tower than where you top out. rap fixed anchors to the ground.
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