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Ironsides Rock Climbing
Routes in Ironsides
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Alloy Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Double Hung S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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High Seas S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Left Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Maiden Head S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Port Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Repeat Offender S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slab-a-dab-a-doo T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Void Where Prohibited S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Walk the Plank S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Welcome to Dystopia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Elevation: | 9,000 ft |
| GPS: |
40.16281, -105.48709 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 26,606 total · 100/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Foy on Jul 1, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This granite wall is one of the best crags in this section of the Ironclads. It's a little harder to get to than the more familiar Ironclads crags, but definitely worth the 20 minute hike. The rock is a solid granite wall that has a moderate slab lower half leading to harder routes above. All routes except two short cracks are bolted, and all routes have bolted rappel anchors. The elevation yields breezy climbing with great views of the valley below, and offers morning shade in the summer. The routes range in difficulty from 5.6 - 5.11.
Getting There
To find Ironsides, drive up CO 7 to Allenspark from Lyons. 0.6 miles after the Peak to Peak (CO Hwy. 72), turn left at FR 115 right before the Bunce School (this is the turn off for all of the Ironclads climbing areas.) Drive up FR 115 (FR105?) for 1.2 miles to a pullout on the left with a tree in the center and a large boulder behind it. This road is hard on a 2WD car after the first 0.5 mile where you can park your buddies who don't own a 4WD vehicle. From the pullout, walk up the strenuous hill for 20 minutes from the other side of the road to a saddle between two domes. The dome on the left is "The Nose." Stay just right of the Nose and follow a trail that gradually goes left just below the saddle. Look for a good-sized bolted wall on your left with a stand of pine trees 10 feet from the base.
L->R:
A. Maiden Head, 6, 1p, 45', bolts or TR.
B. Walk the Plank, 7, 1p, bolts, 90'.
C. Port Side, 6, 1p, gear, 85'.
D. Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace, 8 or 10, 1-2p, bolts + gear?, 85' or 140'.
E. Welcome to Dystopia, 10+, 1p, bolts, 120'.
F. High Seas, 11+, 1p, bolts, 110'.
G. Alloy Madness, 10+, 1p, bolts, 130'.
HG. Life Raft, 11-, 1p, bolts, 130'.
I. Slab-a-Dab-a-Doo, 10-, 1p, bolts, 80'.
J. Nuts, Not Bolts, 11- R, 1p, gear, 75'.
K. Double Hung, 9+, 1p, bolts, 80'.
On a separate pinnacle to the south:
L. Void Where Prohibited, 11- PG13, 1p, bolts & gear, 45'.
M. Repeat Offender?, 8, 1p, bolts, ~70'.
N. Unknown?, 9, 1p, bolts, ~80'.
Across the valley to the west:
R->L:
The Professionals, 11, gear + bolts.
Sump, 10+, gear + bolt.
unknown, 8, bolts.
unknown, 8, 2 bolts + gear, 90'.
unknown, 10, 1-2p, bolts + gear, 190'.
unknown, 9, 1p, bolts + gear, 85'.
unknown, 8+, 1p, bolts, 85'.
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Arete across the minivalley. , 10, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 10+, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 8?, 1p.
Lump, 11, 1p, bolts.
Pump, 12, 1p, bolts.
Chump, 11, 1p, bolts, 30'.
Forrest Gump, 11-, 1p, bolts.
This is just a start, since more development has occurred since Gillett's guidebook.
B. Walk the Plank, 7, 1p, bolts, 90'.
C. Port Side, 6, 1p, gear, 85'.
D. Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace, 8 or 10, 1-2p, bolts + gear?, 85' or 140'.
E. Welcome to Dystopia, 10+, 1p, bolts, 120'.
F. High Seas, 11+, 1p, bolts, 110'.
G. Alloy Madness, 10+, 1p, bolts, 130'.
HG. Life Raft, 11-, 1p, bolts, 130'.
I. Slab-a-Dab-a-Doo, 10-, 1p, bolts, 80'.
J. Nuts, Not Bolts, 11- R, 1p, gear, 75'.
K. Double Hung, 9+, 1p, bolts, 80'.
On a separate pinnacle to the south:
L. Void Where Prohibited, 11- PG13, 1p, bolts & gear, 45'.
M. Repeat Offender?, 8, 1p, bolts, ~70'.
N. Unknown?, 9, 1p, bolts, ~80'.
Across the valley to the west:
R->L:
The Professionals, 11, gear + bolts.
Sump, 10+, gear + bolt.
unknown, 8, bolts.
unknown, 8, 2 bolts + gear, 90'.
unknown, 10, 1-2p, bolts + gear, 190'.
unknown, 9, 1p, bolts + gear, 85'.
unknown, 8+, 1p, bolts, 85'.
unknown, 10+, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 8?, 1p.
Lump, 11, 1p, bolts.
Pump, 12, 1p, bolts.
Chump, 11, 1p, bolts, 30'.
Forrest Gump, 11-, 1p, bolts.
This is just a start, since more development has occurred since Gillett's guidebook.
Classic Climbing Routes at Ironsides
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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