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By Princess Mia
May 22, 2006
Booth (Saddam Insane area):
1. Unnamed (so far).
First ascent: Dave Tucholke, Clay Hall, Joe Schmidt, December 2005.
Bouldery start, then traverse right, and up the dagger.
Formed for the first time this season.
2. Clay’s Pillar.
First ascent: Clay Hall, Dave Tucholke, Joe Schmidt, December 2005.
Thin, freestanding pillar, to a couple of thin variations at the top. Formed for the first time this season.
Note: Clay did not have a name at the time, so it has been fondly nicknamed Clay’s Pillar, though he may have a name to share by now.
3. Saddam Insane
First ascent: Carl Pluim & Kevin Gillest, 12/11/05?
4. Saddam’s Little Brother (or just “The Little Brother”)
First ascent: Kevin Gillest, 12/11/05?
Sometimes a thin smear forms in the corner 15 feet right of climb #3, climb up to a ledge, traverse left and finish on #3.
5. Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow.
First ascent: Kevin Gillest, 2005?
When in, big and fat!
6. Sick Puppy.
First ascent: Dave & Mia Tucholke, December 2005.
P1: A very thin smear 15 feet right of #5, marginal pro, belay on a fat ledge (one can bail to the right from here)
P2: Surmount the exciting roof, mixed to a dagger, no pro until the ice, but by then you might as well finish to the tree!
7. Psycho Cicle.
First ascent: unknown.
A thin freestanding pillar.
Rarely touches down.
8. More Junky than Funky.
First ascent: unknown, but long ago.
Usually really scary in the middle, i.e. thin!
9. War Pig.
First ascent: Probably Dave Tucholke & Dave Many, January 2006 (the climb has never been in before this year).
This climb has it all, mixed, overhanging, dagger. Way Fun!!
First ascent: unknown
A long slabby, thin climb leading to a short and exciting WI5 pillar.
First accent: unknown
A fun, mixed, thin climb just to the right of #10, not in the picture above.
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