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Routes in The Citadel
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Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Best Forgotten Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wish You Were Here T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,763 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on May 8, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
A beautiful dihedral just to the right of Glad We Came. There are a few variations on this climb. All of them start on easy terrain and head straight up into the dihedral. Mid-way through the dihedral is a good stance/ledge. An excellent single pitch climb continues up the dihedral (thin fingers and bomber stemming) to its logical end, and then makes an exposed but well protected traverse to the anchors of Glad We Came.
Another variation climbs to the right from the stance/ledge and then up to a bolt anchor. From here, one can traverse left under the roof to the anchors of Glad We Came or continue up to the summit (I can't find info on the grade).
A description of the full route, though most will likely only do the first pitch:
The original route (Jim Pratt et al. mid 1970s) is a bit different than the above.
p1: climb up to the obvious left facing dihedral. About two thirds up the dihedral, exit right and continue up to a stance below the headwall.
p2: traverse left for a bit, encounter a face crux, probably using, the "death block" described in the comments. I remember a good cam and hand jam in this area. Continue on to a smaller stance and fixed anchor. This is a rather short pitch.
p3: climb straight above the belay in an awkward crack (5.9/5.10) and continue to another good stance. This is yet another shorter pitch.
p4: continue up on easy climbing until one can reach the top of the Citadel. this pitch is long and probably includes portions of the top of Clem's Folly.
Another variation climbs to the right from the stance/ledge and then up to a bolt anchor. From here, one can traverse left under the roof to the anchors of Glad We Came or continue up to the summit (I can't find info on the grade).
A description of the full route, though most will likely only do the first pitch:
The original route (Jim Pratt et al. mid 1970s) is a bit different than the above.
p1: climb up to the obvious left facing dihedral. About two thirds up the dihedral, exit right and continue up to a stance below the headwall.
p2: traverse left for a bit, encounter a face crux, probably using, the "death block" described in the comments. I remember a good cam and hand jam in this area. Continue on to a smaller stance and fixed anchor. This is a rather short pitch.
p3: climb straight above the belay in an awkward crack (5.9/5.10) and continue to another good stance. This is yet another shorter pitch.
p4: continue up on easy climbing until one can reach the top of the Citadel. this pitch is long and probably includes portions of the top of Clem's Folly.
Protection
Standard rack. Thin camming units are useful for the dihedral section above the stance. A #3 Camalot or equivalent readily protects the traverse over to Glad We Came.
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