Glacier Gorge multiday camping

So, if one wanted to spend a few days in Glacier Gorge, climbing say, spearhead, arrowhead, and McHenry's, would it be worth it to get a res. at the backcountry campsite in Glacier Gorge? It doesn't look like it really gets you a whole lot closer. The other option would be to get multiple days of bivy permits for each climb. The routes we are eyeing are North Ridge of Spearhead, sykes sickle, dogstar, refugium, and raindance. Any other similar ones that shouldn't be missed?

Thanks.
DC

As I recall, you can't get a backcountry site particularly close to the climbs up there. Bivouac sites allow you to be very close to the climbs. Down side is that you get stuck in marmot mode, sleeping under rocks (best to count on rain). You can definitely bivouac multiple days up there depending on the routes you choose. As I recall there are limits to the number of days you can camp, bivouac, backcountry camp per calendar year in RMNP. You just have to pick your routes & plan it. Hard to go wrong with routes up there. Some easier routes like Syke's & N Ridge are doable in a day, though.

Does anyone know what you can get away with camping under on a bivy permit? Can you use a tarp? How about a megamid?

I think you may be able to get away w/ a megamid or even a tent, but anything you put up has to be set up @ dusk and taken down first thing. You can't leave it up. When I did the North Face of Sharkstooth we slept in a psuedo- cave al qaeda style.

Should be a blast, have fun and be safe.

H

The camping is great up in the Gorge. You can use a small personal tent, just take it down in the morning and set it up after dusk. Or try to find the sites with giant boulders to crawl under and just use a bivy sack, that is what I usually do. Think about doing the Barb, I like it much better than Sykes. It has a harder crux, but it is short and could be french freed if needed. I also like the East Prow at 5.9 if the other routes are busy.

bumping this old thread - trying to get a handle on the camping/bivy regs specifically for glacier gorge.  I'm just starting to research the reservation system and restrictions.
I'd ideally like to camp in the the gorge for several days to climb the easy classics.  OK with moving camp.

Am I correct in assuming that if climbing a specific objective, I need a bivy permit.  What if I'm just a "backpacker", can I reserve the wilderness designated sites?  I don't mind if these sites are not as close to climbs as the bivy sites.

looking at these sites for info
https://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/upload/campsite_map_small-2016.pdf

https://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/site_details.htm#CP_JUMP_1898583

https://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/bivy_sites.htm

thx.

Yes, you can just reserve the wilderness back country sites, if they are available, and that is a big if. The reason they have bivy sites, is so climbers can overnight for their climbs, while the backcountry sites stay full.Glacier Gorge and Andrews Creek sites stay "full" for the summer. Reserve a  bivy site as soon as you can, as those fill up too. Weekdays are always going to be more available than weekends. Most people (like myself) submit backcountry site requests when the window opens in March. I just got back from RMNP, had my plans shit-canned by the snow storm 10 days ago and all the unseasonal rain, with absolutely no flexibility to change/move my back country campsite reservations.  It is the second most visited N.P., and I am kind of over RMNP, as a cross -country travel destination. My understanding, for the reasons above, many alpine climbs are done as long single days in and out. BTW, the hike up the Loch Vale trail into Glacier Gorge or Andrews Gorge is relatively easy.

https://www.nps.gov/webcams-romo/wo/index.html

You have to have a designated route of 4 or more pitches.  You cannot spend more than 3 days in a bivy zone, but I do believe that means you can hop from zone to zone in the general area. Sometimes the folks at the Wilderness Office are pretty aware of the policies for bivouacs, but sometimes various NPS folks are not as familiar.  I once had to correct a person in the office that Sharkstooth was not in Glacier Gorge.  

Glacier Gorge is one of the few places in the Park I do recommend folks bivy if not for the access, but the beauty.

If you go into GG - I would suggest hiking in early, claim the comfy bivy spot, and if you have the clarity in the forecast, climb the N. Buttress of Pagoda that afternoon.  It gets some nice sun in the afternoon and is a great addition to Spearhead and other routes in the area.  If you're super fast and dialed, you could even hop up to the summit of Longs from Pagoda.

splitclimber wrote: bumping this old thread...

Am I correct in assuming that if climbing a specific objective, I need a bivy permit.  What if I'm just a "backpacker", can I reserve the wilderness designated sites?  I don't mind if these sites are not as close to climbs as the bivy sites.

First off, I would highly recommend you call or visit the Wilderness Office.  Answering these questions and issuing the correct permits is literally the reason that office exists.  The old thread is a little off base on a few points, notably that you are not allowed a tent under bivy regulations.