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Left Peyote Crack
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 27 votes
Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,028 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 22, 2003 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the hardest 5.10 I have done at J-tree. I fell on it twice on lead (micronuts and the smallest lowe-ball.
There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, THe left-most of these starts with a double-overhanging open book. The thin seam protects fromt he ground with a few tiny nuts, and then again from a finger-burning stance if you have the power for it (tiny lowe-ball, & more brass). There is no shortage of pro opportunity here, and it should be taken prior to firing off the route if you have any doubts about onsigting 5.10+.
Climb up on key smears (on the 2 overhanging walls of the open book) to better holds above (5.9 moves) to reach a wide, but easy crack above (5.5?) and proceed to the top.
This route is short but physically and mentally challening. I took my first ever J-tree lead falls on it.
There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, THe left-most of these starts with a double-overhanging open book. The thin seam protects fromt he ground with a few tiny nuts, and then again from a finger-burning stance if you have the power for it (tiny lowe-ball, & more brass). There is no shortage of pro opportunity here, and it should be taken prior to firing off the route if you have any doubts about onsigting 5.10+.
Climb up on key smears (on the 2 overhanging walls of the open book) to better holds above (5.9 moves) to reach a wide, but easy crack above (5.5?) and proceed to the top.
This route is short but physically and mentally challening. I took my first ever J-tree lead falls on it.
Protection
The crux is low, but high enough to really twist your ankles or smack into your belayer and get dropped, perhaps with feet 6' off the ground and in a contorted body position. Gear is difficult to place. The gear at the crux for me consisted of a few small brass nuts and a tiny lowe-ball. Yes, it held 2 falls. After the crux the climbing is still a little strenous to place gear from for a few moves, and a fall is ill-advised. Use short slings to avoid ground-potential.The route can be TR's from large cams in a crack above with either long runners or a cordalette.
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