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Elevation: 8,356 ft
GPS: 40.40681, -105.5372
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 DetailsDrop down
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Description Suggest change

The Bookend, about 400 feet high, is the last cliff of the Book group, lying just to the west of the Book and the Bookmark (as seen from the Black Canyon trail). It has quite a variety of climbing, including the unique Orange Julius (5.10a); perhaps Lumpy's best slab route in Climb of Ancient Mariner (5.10a); and several long chimney routes on its south face.

The cliff is divided by a chimney known as the great dihedral; this lies on its eastern aspect, just right of the prow dividing the S and E faces. The chimney is very narrow at the bottom, and then opens up, reavealing a smooth wall inside with an obvious wide crack (Hot Licks). To the right is the long narrow slab of Ancient Mariner; to the left lies Orange Julius, which weaves a devious line up the aforementioned SE prow and is further identified by a large triangular roof near its bottom. The South face has three or four long chimney lines while the west face is fairly uninteresting and has one or two routes. The odd new-age bolted face route and 5.12ish crack test-piece can be found here and there throughout the cliff. The Bookend has some definite 3-star routes, though not nearly as many as the Book, and it is always less crowded.

Descent: quite uncomplicated for Lumpy Ridge: head NE from the summit, go down a short, easy gully/chimney, and then walk/bushwhack around down to the base of the cliff.

Getting There Suggest change

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, hike west from the old Twin Owls parking lot for about a mile, turn right for the Book, and then left after a little ways for the Bookmark. An unmarked spur trail leads west shortly before the Bookmark, ending at the SE prow of the Bookend. Orange Julius and the Great Dihedral should be visible above and right. Some tricky scrambling is necessary to reach routes from Orange Julius rightwards--see the individual route descriptions. ~40-45 minutes to approach.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: The Bookend Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bookend

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 82
The Great Dihedral
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Bombay Chimney
Trad 5 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 80
Sorcerer
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 74
Hot Licks
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Handbook
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Knight's Gambit
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 4
Sorcerer's Apprentice
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 77
Orange Julius
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 121
Climb of the Ancient Mariner
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Winds of Fortune
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Strawberry Short Cake
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Pineapple Juice
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Sun King
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Dihedral
 82
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bombay Chimney
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Sorcerer
 80
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Hot Licks
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Handbook
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Knight's Gambit
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Sorcerer's Apprentice
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Orange Julius
 77
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 6 pitches
Climb of the Ancient Mariner
 121
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Winds of Fortune
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Strawberry Short Cake
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Pineapple Juice
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Sun King
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Bookend »

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