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Second Buttress Tour
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.7 from 15
votes
Routes in Hallett Peak
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Ad Nauseum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anderson-Magill 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Than Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Block Party T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bold Is Love T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Center Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Collins Donn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Culp-Bossier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Day Trippin' T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Direct Second Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Englishman's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finch Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hesse-Ferguson T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Jackin' the Johnson T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jackson-Johnson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kor-Van Tongeren T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Love at First Sight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Love Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Northcutt-Carter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Owlbear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Point Five Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roomates Suck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Second Buttress Tour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Storm Riders T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Many |
| Page Views: | 13,781 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Aug 3, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Herein is offered a nice little combination of pitches on the Second Buttress of Hallett for those seeking a longer, more continuous excursion up the vague, contorted stone of this famous wall. It combines the Hesse-Ferguson, Culp-Bossier, and Jackson-Johnson for a nice tour. Two characteristics define the common Hallett experience: route finding is very difficult, particularly the higher you go; and the corollary, that with enough mental fortitude one can climb anywhere on this wall. This combination takes advantage of these qualities and offers several excellent pitches up to 5.9. It is perhaps the longest route possible on this part of the wall.
Begin 20m right of the Love Route corner, on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner (FP).
P1: Climb the corner (long pitch).
P2: Move up into a left-facing corner and belay below a rotten roof.
P3: Move right onto a nice, clean slab, and climb up and R (5.9) to the base of a right-facing corner.
P4: Climb the corner (5.9) to the big ledge.
P5-6: Follow Culp-Bossier.
P7: Angle up a long ramp (5.5) to the base of the crux pitch of Jackson-Johnson (a steep, right-facing corner with fixed pins).
P8: Climb the corner (5.9).
P9: Exit to the top. It is also possible to climb the wall (very runout 5.7) left of the 2 Culp-Bossier pitches, then move right on the ramp.
This is one of my favorite combos in the Park.
Begin 20m right of the Love Route corner, on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner (FP).
P1: Climb the corner (long pitch).
P2: Move up into a left-facing corner and belay below a rotten roof.
P3: Move right onto a nice, clean slab, and climb up and R (5.9) to the base of a right-facing corner.
P4: Climb the corner (5.9) to the big ledge.
P5-6: Follow Culp-Bossier.
P7: Angle up a long ramp (5.5) to the base of the crux pitch of Jackson-Johnson (a steep, right-facing corner with fixed pins).
P8: Climb the corner (5.9).
P9: Exit to the top. It is also possible to climb the wall (very runout 5.7) left of the 2 Culp-Bossier pitches, then move right on the ramp.
This is one of my favorite combos in the Park.
Photos
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