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Ground Fall Interceptor (GFI)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Lightning Rock
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Ground Fall Interceptor (GFI) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Off The Grid T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Power Shortage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Short Circuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Banks and Howard Burkhart |
| Page Views: | 2,277 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | spanky on Jul 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Start 15 feet right of Short Circuit/Meltdown. Climb up to the left edge of the low ceiling band, undercling and lieback around the roof and stretch up for a fingerlock (tricky protection). Face climb up and right on perfect stone, 5.9+, and then up and left on easier climbing to the large ledge 60 feet up. Belay at the tree.
Move right on the ledge to a thin crack 10 feet right of the Meltdown finger crack. Climb the finger crack to its end, then sketch past 3 bolts of fantastic steep slab climbing. Crux is between 1st and 2nd bolts. At the 3rd bolt, perform a delicate traverse right, 5.10d, to gain discontinuous cracks that lead to a stance on the right edge of the face. From the stance, step left into a thin crack in a shallow corner. Lieback and jam this to its top, place a critical #00 TCU, and perform difficult moves pulling over a bulge, exciting 5.10c. After the bulge, climb up and left on runout 5.9 slab to reach a thank-god jug. Easier climbing, 5.6 or 5.7, finds the top. Use slings on horns for belay, walk off for descent.
This is a full 200-foot pitch if done as described. If using a 50-meter rope, set intermediate belay at stance below upper crack, using a couple of 2" cams for anchors. However, when done as one pitch, the 2nd pitch is a long, sustained lead with multiple cruxes of excellent thin face and crack climbing. Quality!
Move right on the ledge to a thin crack 10 feet right of the Meltdown finger crack. Climb the finger crack to its end, then sketch past 3 bolts of fantastic steep slab climbing. Crux is between 1st and 2nd bolts. At the 3rd bolt, perform a delicate traverse right, 5.10d, to gain discontinuous cracks that lead to a stance on the right edge of the face. From the stance, step left into a thin crack in a shallow corner. Lieback and jam this to its top, place a critical #00 TCU, and perform difficult moves pulling over a bulge, exciting 5.10c. After the bulge, climb up and left on runout 5.9 slab to reach a thank-god jug. Easier climbing, 5.6 or 5.7, finds the top. Use slings on horns for belay, walk off for descent.
This is a full 200-foot pitch if done as described. If using a 50-meter rope, set intermediate belay at stance below upper crack, using a couple of 2" cams for anchors. However, when done as one pitch, the 2nd pitch is a long, sustained lead with multiple cruxes of excellent thin face and crack climbing. Quality!
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