Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
FA: | Pat Ament, Paul Mayrose, 1964 |
Page Views: | 27,917 total · 99/month |
Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with closures are crucial to the eagles’ success.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Description
This is a great line up the exposed and interesting buttress.
P1. Start at the low point by a fallen tree, and head straight up the crack systems. The exact route is probably the line of least resistance, but many variations are possible. This is the longest pitch and the best of the three. Belay on a big ledge (5.8+ 130 feet).
P2. Take the corner to the right, and crank up the large dihedral. Per Evan Noronha: you can end this pitch at the large ledge (50 feet) or continue a little further into a smaller right-facing dihedral that drops you into a comfy alcove with a small pine tree, 5.8, 80 feet.
P3. Continue up the right-facing dihedral. The technical crux occurs after #2 Friend placement. This is your last placement for the next 15 feet. Move up through the thin, balancy crux, and finish left on a large ramp. Per Evan Noronha: if you continued to the pine tree alcove, launch into the shallow groove / left-facing corner passing progressively smaller and smaller gear placements until the crack peters out entirely. Continue to run it out (heady but PG-13) straight up through the thin, balancy crux, and finish left on a large ramp. You can finish the climb here by walking left and around a roof feature. Optionally, stretch this pitch 15 feet further by continuing up left side of the roof (5.7), and belay on the low-angle slabs above, 5.8+/9-, 80 feet.
It is another Ament classic.
Per BrokenChairs 88: descent (from P3): walk West to North towards East Blob Rock eventually working your way to the top of Bitty Buttress. Pick up the faint climber's path that starts heading down the gully between Bitty and East Blob. The trail will work its way SW back towards the start of Bitty Buttress. The gully is not super obvious until you're on it, but it is NOT the gully between Bitty Buttress and East Blob. If you need to downclimb, you're in the wrong spot.
Lethal block perched on the route!
Per Heather Thorne: there is a lethal block perched at the top of Bitty Buttress route. After going through the roof, just to the right of the route on a small ledge just before you top out, there's a large, flat, oval-shaped boulder (about the size of 2 microwaves put together) that hangs halfway off the edge, and rocks when you touch it. I gingerly climbed up and left of it, but it's only a matter of time before someone actually pulls on it and it crashes down on / to the right of the route. BEWARE!
A picture/video here: photos.app.goo.gl/LV9FBQC3u….
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