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Music for the Dead
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 2.9 from 13
votes
Routes in South Facing
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Ants In My Pants S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Cemetery Gates S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Chicken Soup S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cowboys From Hell S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Music for the Dead S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Procession S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Requiem S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Soup Kitchen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Erik Johnson |
| Page Views: | 1,699 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Aug 6, 2002 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Music for the Dead is the first route you encounter on the Lower Tier itself (not to be confused with the big sunny slab just left of the Skull Cave, which has two long face routes).
From the parking area, follow the trail straight back, stepping over an enormous anthill. Music for the Dead will be on your left, about 30 feet past a horrendously chossy, left-trending arch. It is the furthest route left on the wall.
This is a good tick for boulderers, as the crux comes early and the climbing up high, while tricky, is mostly vertical. I think most people pre-clip the second bolt.
Bust a series of hard moves right off the deck (V6/7?) until you surmount the bulging wall and hit the vertical plaque above. A longer-than-it-looks vertical slab, with occasional bulge and overlap cruxes, leads you to the anchors. Expect sporty climbing and less-than-secure moves on the upper headwall.
From the parking area, follow the trail straight back, stepping over an enormous anthill. Music for the Dead will be on your left, about 30 feet past a horrendously chossy, left-trending arch. It is the furthest route left on the wall.
This is a good tick for boulderers, as the crux comes early and the climbing up high, while tricky, is mostly vertical. I think most people pre-clip the second bolt.
Bust a series of hard moves right off the deck (V6/7?) until you surmount the bulging wall and hit the vertical plaque above. A longer-than-it-looks vertical slab, with occasional bulge and overlap cruxes, leads you to the anchors. Expect sporty climbing and less-than-secure moves on the upper headwall.
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