Type: | Trad, 620 ft (188 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Duncan Ferguson with either or Chris Reveley /Jim Walsh |
Page Views: | 15,347 total · 57/month |
Shared By: | Ray Snead on Dec 31, 2001 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This is the Dome's historic ultraclassic. There is mandatory excitement around the roof on the 2nd pitch (as described here) - no way to dog this one. Start near the center of the face at an obvious, easy crack.
P1. Climb the crack (5.5, gear) to its top [optional belay], then friction up to join Topographical Oceans for the first three bolts of its second pitch (5.9). Veer left, then climb up and right to a belay at an arch, 230'.
P2. Climb right around the arch-roof (5.9) with courage, then follow a ramp up and left to a belay above the arch, 80'.
P3. Climb up past a bolt to an overlap, and turn it on the right (5.6) or left (5.9), and continue up left to a belay, 150'.
P4. Move left on a ramp to a wide-ish crack, climb it (5.8) to the easy summit slabs, 160'.
Downclimb to the east to descend.
Per Cory N: alternatively, head north into the second obvious gully that descends to the west. Spot a dead tree and some 4th Class downclimbing towards a cave like formation created by a few leaning boulders. If there is snow and ice on this, it will be quite adventurous. There is tat under the large boulder that cannot be seen until you go into the cave. This rappel is above "Cruiser" and is about 100'. Hike south following some cairns back to the base of the The Dome.
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