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> W Wall: Pummeling Sec…
Repulsion
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
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Blind Date S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glamorama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Misanthrope, The S |
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Only Human S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pummeling, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Repulsion S |
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Sandman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tommy's 11+ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Matt Samet, Bill Launder |
| Page Views: | 2,535 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jun 26, 2003 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book.
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
Access Issue: Closures from February 15- August 15
Details
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
Description
This is the third route in from the left on the Pummeling Sector, and the rightmost of the trio of routes you first see at the top of the approach trail. It can be distinguished by the black Metolius hangers on most of the bolts, and climbs a sustained, gently overhanging face up a grey/black water streak on killer stone. Thankfully, this route has little or no Fortress Powder on it.
Climb past the first bolt on a clean, grey face into a patch where some big blocks fell off. Move through a rooflet, then continue up the face on sidepulls and bear-hug moves on bizarre, mini-corners. A small, final roof before the finishing slab might be the pump crux. It's a bit runout from the final bolt to the anchors, but there are good edges up there--you just need to take the time to find them.
A second pitch could be added, most likely. This could be one letter grade harder or easier than 5.12c. I dunno.
Climb past the first bolt on a clean, grey face into a patch where some big blocks fell off. Move through a rooflet, then continue up the face on sidepulls and bear-hug moves on bizarre, mini-corners. A small, final roof before the finishing slab might be the pump crux. It's a bit runout from the final bolt to the anchors, but there are good edges up there--you just need to take the time to find them.
A second pitch could be added, most likely. This could be one letter grade harder or easier than 5.12c. I dunno.
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