Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: FFA: Steve Wunsch & John Bragg, 1975
Page Views: 8,572 total · 35/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on Mar 18, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This has got to be one of the best cracks in the area! It's the obvious crack just up from the low point of the Maiden (on the S. face), look up. Great protection, setting and movement make this one a gem. 5.10 climbing leads to the final pumpy sequence where the crack leans right and the crux face climbing exit. (Or was that the pump factor?) Save a #3.5 or 4 Friend for the last piece. Rated .11c, it felt more like .11a to both me and my partner. There is a 2 bolt anchor at that you can descend with a 70m. It is best to clean this pitch via following due to the traversing nature. Combine with East Ridge, West Overhang and Dream Street Rose (on the North face) for the ultimate Maiden tour! 

Protection Suggest change

Nuts and cams to #4 Friend, no fixed anchor.

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