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Routes in Morning Sun Wall
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Albatross T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beast Master T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diagonal Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Five Seven Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gun Control S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Howitzer, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lowly Morning V0 4 PG13 |
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Magician's Apprentice S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Marijuana S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Millard Filmore Memorial, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mystical Potato Head Groove Thing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pointillist S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Renaissance S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rising Sun T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Super Chunk V9 7C |
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| Type: | Sport, TR |
| FA: | Hanson & Sills, 1990? |
| Page Views: | 832 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Darin Lang on Apr 29, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2022
Details
Due to a variety of species that use Morning Sun Wall for nesting, it will be closed annually from March 1 - July 31. If you have any questions you can email dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or call the park at 303-688-5242 to confirm any of this information.
Description
Follow a left-leaning "crack" for a sustained and chossy ride past the first three bolts. The first bolt is quite high and the rock below it is a bit loose - stick clip advised. Once at the "rest" ledge, head straight up the improbable headwall past the last two bolts. The guidebook notes that a large hueco to the left "will grant you easier passage" after the last bolt, but this way seems very contrived and would implicate a decent pendulum. It is best to power straight up via an unlikely-looking dyno from a kneebar - probably 11b or so. It gets 0.83 stars, but with a little more traffic (and consequent removal of some of the lower choss), this would be a fine outing.
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