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Routes in Nautilus
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30 is the New 20 T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+ |
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Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Belly Flop T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C |
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Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+ |
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Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cupcake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b V1 5 |
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Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deterioration / Unknown V1+ 5 |
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Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hand Jam Traverse aka V1 Traverse V1 5 |
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Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Heel to Toe V4- 6B |
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Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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In The Dark T V2-3 5+ |
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In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Infant Son T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lucky You T V6 7A |
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Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+ |
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Nemo's Nemesis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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New Mutant T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Octagon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Practice Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pretty S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Republic, The V10 7C+ |
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Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Right Winger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4 |
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Shotgun Willy V7 7A+ |
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Slab and Grab V4 6B |
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Slab Stealer T V4 6B |
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Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Soak'em In Cider V5 6C |
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Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Sun Up To Sundown V6 7A |
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Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tempest V10 7C+ |
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Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5 |
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Unknown Mantle V2 5+ |
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Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A |
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Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+ |
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Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Paul Piana and Drew Arnold, 1983. |
| Page Views: | 1,738 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Annecone on Jul 29, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This is a very good and sustained pitch with lots of variety. It's located on the north side of the Nautilus just west of the Horticulture area. Start up the left-facing corner system and climb through moderate but sometimes insecure terrain. The first half is harder than it looks, with [tricky] gear in spots, maybe 5.9+ or easy 5.10.
Once you've arrived at the base of the overhanging, flared hand crack, things get much harder. Power up this sustained crack for 15 or 20 feet, the crux is getting over the bulge at the top of this section. For people with thin hands, the jams may feel relatively secure, but many will find it thin and flared. A nice rest stance comes after the overhang and under the final roof/offwidth.
Work into the wide crack, this upper crux is getting off the stance and into the crack initially. This bit felt like 5.10c or so, and can be protected with a #4 Camalot. From there, easier 5.9 fists takes you to the top. Walk off to the west.
Quite a nice route, even by Nautilus standards. I took the liberty of increasing the rating a bit over the 5.10d listed in the guidebook. I've done other 5.1la routes in Vedauwoo that felt easier than Cool Hand Luke, and this felt similar to Boardwalk (5.11b) in difficulty and type of climbing, so the 11a seems justified by Vedauwoo standards. (Also, three others who climbed it that day thought it was 11+ so it may still be tough for it's rating).
Once you've arrived at the base of the overhanging, flared hand crack, things get much harder. Power up this sustained crack for 15 or 20 feet, the crux is getting over the bulge at the top of this section. For people with thin hands, the jams may feel relatively secure, but many will find it thin and flared. A nice rest stance comes after the overhang and under the final roof/offwidth.
Work into the wide crack, this upper crux is getting off the stance and into the crack initially. This bit felt like 5.10c or so, and can be protected with a #4 Camalot. From there, easier 5.9 fists takes you to the top. Walk off to the west.
Quite a nice route, even by Nautilus standards. I took the liberty of increasing the rating a bit over the 5.10d listed in the guidebook. I've done other 5.1la routes in Vedauwoo that felt easier than Cool Hand Luke, and this felt similar to Boardwalk (5.11b) in difficulty and type of climbing, so the 11a seems justified by Vedauwoo standards. (Also, three others who climbed it that day thought it was 11+ so it may still be tough for it's rating).
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