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Routes in Kloof Alcove
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Extendogap T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Flyswatter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Half & Half T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jimmy G. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kloof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lug's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lycra Clad Donkey (submitted as Iron Monkey) T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Paligap T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Sequential T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Superfly T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Weevil's Walk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wizard, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | FTR: John Baldwin, FHP: Josh Wharton |
| Page Views: | 2,671 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | josh wharton on Nov 6, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Climb up the very soft .12a "Space Neutralizer" to reach the base of the overhanging arete above, or traverse in easily from the left (the start of "Kloof"). Clip the 2 pins hidden back at the base of the chossy dihedral and place a small cam in a horizontal break on the arete (double ropes are useful for making this work without drag). Move slightly down and right to gain bouldery moves that lead up right to a set of fixed wires. One more move past the wires leads to easier terrain and a gear anchor off mid-size cams. Although it looks quite dangerous the fall from the crux (which I tested a few times for good measure) resulted in only a bruised hip, so a ground-up ascent would not be unreasonable. I believe Baldwin applied to have this route bolted but was denied (Rossiter mentions it as the TR line "Extendogap" .12c in his guide) and I assume it has never been lead until now--although in Boulder I could certainly be wrong. Skip Guerin may have done in barefoot in '85? Zach Smith deserves most of the credit for this line as he had the vision to see it as a headpoint and placed the fixed wires just above the crux.
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