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Routes in East Side
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Candyman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cocaine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cold Turkey S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Corridor Traverse, The V4 6B |
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Crescent Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Deal, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fixer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mighty Thor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pure Energy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rocket Fuel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sign Of The Times S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Silver Spoon S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stalactite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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There Goes The Neighborhood S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tutor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Leonard Coyne, Ken Sims, Ed Webster, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 3,617 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Chris R on Sep 8, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
Cocaine is a classic Garden friction climb. This line is on the left side of the Drug Wall. Start left of Silver Spoon, then trend up and left on mostly easy slab towards the low end of a funky horizontal corner--step over this corner. There isn't much, if any, psychological pro you can sink before the first pin. Once that pin is achieved, though, pro is adequate. Keep moving up and slightly left past another pin or two to a friction move straight up. The tricky part of this line are the traverse moves. The line isn't direct from this point--you will step up and left again and clip a pin (use a long sling on this one), then swing back right and up on thin holds. Aim straight up for a small, right-facing flake that leads to a belay ledge and fixed chain anchors.
Descend by rappel or (not recommended) downclimb the gully to the climber's right. Use double ropes to get to the ground, unless you single-rope rappel down the gully to the Silver Spoon anchors and then to the ground from there. This is a fun and creative line for the friction feet, crimpy hold masochist. Variation: instead of the left-then-right traverse at mid-route, go straight up past a pin at 11b-ish.
Descend by rappel or (not recommended) downclimb the gully to the climber's right. Use double ropes to get to the ground, unless you single-rope rappel down the gully to the Silver Spoon anchors and then to the ground from there. This is a fun and creative line for the friction feet, crimpy hold masochist. Variation: instead of the left-then-right traverse at mid-route, go straight up past a pin at 11b-ish.
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