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Third Time's a Charm
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Fi
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Extraterrestrial T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fi Fun T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Hi Fi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lichen the Look of This T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Third Time's a Charm T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Tony Bubb- 6/8/03 |
| Page Views: | 714 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 7, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Fun moves but with a relatively short and hard crux, it doesn't get enough mileage in with interesting moves to be really good. Compare to the East Overhang on the 2nd Flatiron, but probably quite a bit harder?
Go up to the Rock, Fi, and wander uphill on its South Side. Just before reaching a notch where a bus-sized boulder lies against the wall a short crack and corner system lead up to a sloping ledge, from which a very odd incut, then flaring, rounded crack pierces an overhang for 10 feet.
Climb up 10' and place a cam, then pass a huge free-standing flake on your left before reaching up and right to mount a sloping ledge. From the ledge, go up and right, then left into the crack and past it (crux) to some slopers- a few moves up and right from the low angle section will take you to the East face, and a belay or directional can be had just uphill, in a crack by a tiny pine tree. This can be seen in the lower left-hand corner of the attached picture of the East Face.
Belay here or continue upward to a good notch after 60M.
You can downclimb the 5.3 slab to the ground at the base of the east face from this belay, or continue to the summit and rap off: See notes on the rock page for Fi.
Go up to the Rock, Fi, and wander uphill on its South Side. Just before reaching a notch where a bus-sized boulder lies against the wall a short crack and corner system lead up to a sloping ledge, from which a very odd incut, then flaring, rounded crack pierces an overhang for 10 feet.
Climb up 10' and place a cam, then pass a huge free-standing flake on your left before reaching up and right to mount a sloping ledge. From the ledge, go up and right, then left into the crack and past it (crux) to some slopers- a few moves up and right from the low angle section will take you to the East face, and a belay or directional can be had just uphill, in a crack by a tiny pine tree. This can be seen in the lower left-hand corner of the attached picture of the East Face.
Belay here or continue upward to a good notch after 60M.
You can downclimb the 5.3 slab to the ground at the base of the east face from this belay, or continue to the summit and rap off: See notes on the rock page for Fi.
Protection
A cam or two, then throught he crux stoppers and TCUs. The belay above can be done with hand-to-fist sized cams. There are some runouts before and after the crux, and a sloping ledge below the crux, although if you place pro high (strenuous) you should not hit the ledge (hard). The falls I took were safe.
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