Directagonal

In 1959, with the Diamond closed to all climbing for safety reasons, the Lower East Face of Longs Peak was the "next best thing" for the hungry Boulder climbing community to focus on. After considerable effort over that summer, Ray Northcutt and Layton Kor established "The Diagonal" route at V 5.9 A3. Not only was The Diagonal the first Grade V rock climb in Colorado, it was a watershed event in Colorado climbing history, and led directly to the lifting of the climbing ban on the Diamond. (The following summer, Californians Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick succeeded on the central plumb-line crack system on the Diamond, and fittingly named their route "Diamond One", or D1 as it is now called. Ironically, Kor, who wanted badly to make the first ascent of the Diamond, was off climbing in Yosemite Valley at the time.) Although aid was used by Northcutt and Kor on the Diagonal, according to Fricke's 1971 RMNP guidebook the route developed a reputation for difficult and sustained freeclimbing, and was thus unpopular.

By the early 1970s the climbing paradigm had shifted to freeclimbing the remaining aid routes, and as one of the best "lines" in the RMNP The Diagonal came back into the spotlight. The result was "The Directagonal", a challenging free variation to The Diagonal which follows the general line and creatively bypasses the rappel done by Northcutt and Kor on the first ascent. The Directagonal crystalizes all the elements of "adventure rock climbing" into one memorable sojourn: excellent climbing (though often wet at the crux), inobvious route finding, some fractured flakes, vegetation in the cracks, runouts, nice exposure, a complicated descent...all above 13,000' and in one of the most dramatic alpine locales in the lower 48. A spectacular route!

The route follows to half-height the obvious left-angling diagonal crack system that defines the central section of the Lower East Face, then traverses right into a large left-facing corner system which leads to Broadway.

P1: Begin at the base of the diagonal crack, and climb a short, cold, harsh 15 feet of 5.10d. Continue to the higher of two small ledges on the left and belay (2 old bolts that need to be replaced).

P2: Step back right into the crack system and scrape upwards on (usually) wet rock past a difficult section (5.11a, adequate pro), then easier rock to an alcove below large overhangs.

P3: Climb through the overhang at 5.9+ or so, then after 30 feet hand traverses right at a large flake system (really fun) to a cramped belay stance at a right-facing corner system.

P4: This is perhaps the routefinding crux. Climb directly above the belay (in and just right of the corner) for a short way, then move up and right to a traverse at a bulge/overhang. The traverse is 5.9, often a little wet, and does not protect well at all. Now climb a crack system to a nice stance (this stance is where the Northcutt/Kor rappel ended). A long pitch.

P5: Climb a short step to a single bolt, then move right to a tight left-facing corner (crux, excellent pro, often wet) that leads to the perrenially wet left-facing corner (5.10d, hand-size cams). Belay on a small stance on the left. Watch your ropes hanging from this belay, as there is a rope-eating loose flake 30 feet below.

P6: Now tackle the "old school 5.9" corner and flake system above, stepping right at the top to belay on the slopes of Broadway.

To exit, traverse right on Broadway (often snow and ice, loose rock) to the rappel line down Crack of Delight, or follow the lead of Roger Briggs and Australian Kim Carrigan and continue with the complete Yellow Wall (1980, all free, 14 hours). I would wear a helmet on the Directagonal, since a lot of rocks come whizzing by from above (consider avoiding this and all Lower East Face routes on high season weekends since there is so much traffic directly above). Although a Grade IV, it may take a full day for some parties. Some sections of this route (the 5.9 traverse in particular) have mandatory free climbing that could not be aided in a rain storm. There are (as of August 2000) slings at all belay stances, and it would be possible to rappel from most anywhere on the route, though above pitch 4 this may be problematic. The 5.10d corner above the crux is almost always wet, and in wet years the 5.11 corner (and much of the route) will be a challenge to free climb. Probably best as a late season climb when things may be at their driest. Early season (June to mid-July) there may be more seepage, but, really, the plumbing on the East Cirque of Longs is a mystery.

A suggested (perhaps excessive) rack: a double set RPs to 3" cams, one each 3.5" and 4" cam, with extra wired nuts. Nut tool for leader to clean out gear placements. Two ropes required if you rap from Broadway. Helmet!!!