Piz Badille Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 8,500 ft |
GPS: |
40.1393, -105.4843 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 29,728 total · 112/month |
Shared By: | Michael Walker on Jun 11, 2002 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Named for its resemblance to the Piz Badille in the Alps, the rock was first climbed, and named, by Ray Northcutt in 1954, probably by the Ridge Route. The rock saw a resurgence of interest in the nineties when a number of bolt-protected routes were added to the lower slabs. There is still potential on the upper slabs for long moderate routes as most of the bolt protected routes end on the slab after only one pitch with miles of stone above.
The rock on the Piz is dark gray granite that is very variable in consistency. Most routes follow nice slabs split by intermittent cracks and overlaps, except the Ridge Route which follows a prominent ridge on the north of the formation. The rock quality can be quite good on the slab, but loose areas abound.
To descend from the Summit, scramble down the talus slope along the north edge of the mossy North face of the Piz. The more recent bolt routes have rappel anchors. Per Bill Duncan: there is now a double rope rappel near The Ridge finish.
Getting There
To get to the Piz from Lyons, take CO 7 up the St. Vrain Canyon to the intersection with CO 72. Take a left (south) and after a few miles, the Piz will dominate the left side of the highway across the St. Vrain River.
As of 2023, additional new no trespassing signs are posted. Park opposite the base of the crag on the river side of the road. Using your best judgment and ski poles, cross the river, and hike directly to the base of the climb. This approach is shorter than the bridge approach. Access to the base of the Piz is very easy, that is, if you don't mind crossing a no trespassing sign. Park slightly north of the Piz at a turnout with a small bridge crossing the St. Vrain River. There is currently a chain and "No Trespassing" sign on this bridge. Cross at your own risk, and head upstream to the base of the Piz. If your karma can't bear the thought of trespassing on the bridge, you can park slightly south of the Piz on CO 72 and cross the river at a shallow area. Expect this crossing to be the crux of your day!
Classic Climbing Routes at Piz Badille
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