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Locksmith aka Dihedral Route
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 15
votes
Routes in Sphinx Rock
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Black Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cheops S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crunch, The T,TR V0- 4- |
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Exit Stage Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Joint Venture T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Lickety Split S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Locksmith aka Dihedral Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Return to Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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So Honed Yet So Stoned S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sphinx Crack T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Talus Food Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Thinner T A3 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | at least by George Bracksieck, 1972-5 (submitted as Dave Bell, Chris Bell, Byron Nelson, 1982) |
| Page Views: | 2,717 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Keyser on Jul 16, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 
Per T Dz: I talked to the owner of the saloon who knows the property owner. Apparently, his deceased wife is buried at the base of Sphinx. Best to let her rest if so.
Description
This nice climb is on Sphinx Rock. It is one (free) route to the left of Sphinx Crack, in the big dihedral splitting the crag. It follows the dihedral from the base of the crag up to the ledge where Sphinx Crack starts. After this belay, the route continues up the dihedral to the top. Sphinx Crack is the obvious 5.13 finger crack...you won't miss it if you're at the right crag!
Pitch one starts with a 5.8 offwidth crack for about 20-30 feet. This section can become somewhat of a grunt fest depending on how you go at it. About the only pro in this section would be the #3 Big Bro, or MAYBE a #5 cam, but, I doubt it... After this section, you cruise more easily up the rest of the chimney at about 5.7. Belay at the large ledge.
Pitch two. Just left of Sphinx Crack, climb the dihedral. It starts as a fist/wide hands crack, then steepens up into a finger crack/corner. This part takes good gear (nuts, and small cams), and is pretty steep, but really fun. The crux is at the very end where the finger crack curves left to the belay. The best way I've found to do this is with this weird sort of two finger lay back with the right hand, while smearing up and around with the left foot. This is done with decent gear (a small cam works good, I think about the black Metolius) not too far below.
Walk off easily, around and to the climber's right.
Pitch one starts with a 5.8 offwidth crack for about 20-30 feet. This section can become somewhat of a grunt fest depending on how you go at it. About the only pro in this section would be the #3 Big Bro, or MAYBE a #5 cam, but, I doubt it... After this section, you cruise more easily up the rest of the chimney at about 5.7. Belay at the large ledge.
Pitch two. Just left of Sphinx Crack, climb the dihedral. It starts as a fist/wide hands crack, then steepens up into a finger crack/corner. This part takes good gear (nuts, and small cams), and is pretty steep, but really fun. The crux is at the very end where the finger crack curves left to the belay. The best way I've found to do this is with this weird sort of two finger lay back with the right hand, while smearing up and around with the left foot. This is done with decent gear (a small cam works good, I think about the black Metolius) not too far below.
Walk off easily, around and to the climber's right.
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