The Needle Rock Climbing

Per Nathan Welton:

A. South Face, 7, 1p, 110', gear.

B? History Lesson, 1p, bolts?

C. The Grommet, 8, 1p, 80', bolts.

D. Suburban Hangover, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.

E. Momentary Lapse of Ethics, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.

F. Temple of the Dog, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.

G. Damage Done, 11, 1p, 30', bolts.

H. North Lieback, 10, 1p, 70', gear.

I. Bustin' Move, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.

J. Unknown 5.12, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.

K. Uphill Slab Direct, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.

L. Needle TR wall aka Uphill Slab, 7-11, 1p, TR.

M. Descent Route, 2 R, 1p, 70, gear.

N. Stitches, 10, 1p, 55', bolts.

O. Hanging Over New Year's, 9, 1p, gear.

P. Patchwork, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.

The Thumb and Needle are prominent crags (previously on private property) that are now on The Thumb Open Space, established in 2022 by the Town of Ester Park. Access to the crags is gained from a signed trailhead and small parking lot on Peak View Drive just west of Curry Drive. Do not park on Curry Drive or access the crags from anywhere along Curry Drive. From the Peak View Drive trailhead, the trail is well marked and approximately 0.75 miles long with an elevation gain of about 400 feet. Expect about 20 to 30 minutes for the approach to reach the Thumb and the Needle.

The Town of Estes Park worked on purchasing the property with the Access Fund, Rocky Mountain Conservancy, GOCO, and The Estes Valley Land Trust. The goal is to keep this area public with climbing access, so please respect private property rights of adjacent landowners.

For any questions about The Thumb Open Space, please contact Brian Berg, Park Supervisor, Town of Estes Park, bberg@estes.org, (970) 577-3783.

During 2022, major efforts were expended by members of the Boulder Climbing Community and Estes Park volunteers to replace over 100 old protection bolts and anchors on many of the sport climbs on the Thumb and the Needle. Many of the routes now have clip and lower anchors, and there are also new rappel stations on top of both crags and also the Thimble.

Formerly: Prospect Mt. had been owned privately, primarily by 2 landowners, for a long time. Over the years, these landowners have tolerated climbing presence on various crags. With an increase in visitation, perhaps due to COVID-19, these property owners have now become unwilling to allow climbers on their lands. In fact, no trespassing signs have been posted, and some unpleasant confrontations have occurred. The town of Estes Park has sought to purchase land that would include many of the climbing crags and boulders on Prospect Mt. The town of Estes Park has been working with the Access Fund, Rocky Mountain Conservancy, GOCO, and the Estes Valley Land Trust in an effort to provide legal access to the climbing on Prospect Mt. hopefully within a year. A new trail may be built, and a management plan would follow. While this process is ongoing, please avoid climbing on these crags so as to make these negotiations go as smoothly as possible. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation!