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The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse) Rock Climbing
Routes in The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
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Altoids On the Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baditude S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Up The Hillside S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fire Starter S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Homesteader Burns Up The Hillside, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Homesteader, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Howl Of A Hungry Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kelp Bed Freak Show S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lady Of The Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lipstick Sunset S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Montana Floodgates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Morning Sunshine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nimby S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nuns on the Beach S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Sundance S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Tanning Block, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Uptown Venus S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Walking On Burning Floodgates S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Walking On The Sun S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Walking with the Homesteader S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Waves of Rays S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Waves on the Beach S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Willie's Wake Up Call Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 7,600 ft |
| GPS: |
40.0057, -105.3953 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 31,813 total · 112/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
The Solar Dome is a small, non-descript crag uphill and a bit West of The Upper Security Risk. Really, it looks like a small, improbable blob with little to offer. In fact, The Solar Dome is a well-developed sport crag on short but typical Boulder Canyon granite. Most routes are under 70 feet in length and have been well-bolted. Surprisingly good climbing can be had for such short routes. Since the crag sits on top of the hill, it gets good sun all day long. However, it also picks up most of the bad weather blowing through Boulder Canyon. On a warm summer day, The Solar Dome is a great place to catch the rays and pick off a few good climbs. The climbing is largely 5.10 to 5.12, although a few very moderate lines have been installed. Presently, there are at least twenty routes in place with link-ups possible for many of these.
L->R:
A. Nimby, 7+, 1p, bolts.
B. Montana Floodgates, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Burning Up The Hillside, 11-, 1p, 60' bolts.
D. Sundance, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
EDCB. The Homesteader Burns Up The Hillside, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. The Homesteader, 11+, 1p, bolts.
FEDCB. Walking On Burning Floodgates, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
FE. Walking with the Homesteader, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Walking On The Sun, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
G. Altoids On The Beach, 8, 1p, bolts.
HI. Waves On The Beach, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Waves Of Rays, 10, 1p, bolts.
J. Nuns On The Beach, 11+, 2 starts, 1p, 60', bolts.
K. Kelp Bed Freak Show, 11-, 1p, 55', bolts.
L. Baditude, 10, 1p, bolts.
M. Howl Of A Hungry Cat, 10+, 1p, bolts.
N. Lady Of The Light, 12-, 1p, bolts.
O. Uptown Venus, 11-12, 1p, bolts.
P1. Fire Starter, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
P2. Willie's Wake Up Call Girl, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Q. Morning Sunshine, 7, 1p, bolts.
Below:
AA. Lipstick Sunset, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
BB. The Tanning Block, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
CC. Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
L->R:
A. Nimby, 7+, 1p, bolts.
B. Montana Floodgates, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Burning Up The Hillside, 11-, 1p, 60' bolts.
D. Sundance, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
EDCB. The Homesteader Burns Up The Hillside, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. The Homesteader, 11+, 1p, bolts.
FEDCB. Walking On Burning Floodgates, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
FE. Walking with the Homesteader, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Walking On The Sun, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
G. Altoids On The Beach, 8, 1p, bolts.
HI. Waves On The Beach, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
I. Waves Of Rays, 10, 1p, bolts.
J. Nuns On The Beach, 11+, 2 starts, 1p, 60', bolts.
K. Kelp Bed Freak Show, 11-, 1p, 55', bolts.
L. Baditude, 10, 1p, bolts.
M. Howl Of A Hungry Cat, 10+, 1p, bolts.
N. Lady Of The Light, 12-, 1p, bolts.
O. Uptown Venus, 11-12, 1p, bolts.
P1. Fire Starter, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
P2. Willie's Wake Up Call Girl, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Q. Morning Sunshine, 7, 1p, bolts.
Below:
AA. Lipstick Sunset, 12, 1p, 30', bolts.
BB. The Tanning Block, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
CC. Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob, 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
Getting There
The most hassle free approach to The Solar Dome is to hike up from The Upper Security Risk crag. This adds about 10 minutes to the hike up from Boulder Canyon making the entire walk at least 45 minutes. In the past, it was possible to approach The Solar Dome from the North, parking on the hill just before it drops down to Dream Canyon parking. This entails crossing private land, which has caused some trouble in the past several years and is to be avoided if possible. That said however, we have used the Northern approach after first checking with the landowners.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
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Photos
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