Type: |
Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
FA: | Bob Culp and Stan Shepard, 1961. FFA: John Behrens and Jim Erickson, 1968 |
Page Views: | 8,929 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Joe Collins on Jun 13, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The route begins immediately right of Hair City, following the crack system seen in the photo below. The first pitch is great and I'm surprised it hasn't been added to the site.
P1- Climb the very thin crack (11a- one move) to a good ledge. One can avoid the thin crack by starting in from the right and traversing left to the ledge above the thin crack. Climb the crack and flake system past two pitons (the first of which is badly bent) to a bulge. Clip the pin above the bulge and make a funky face move out left, then move back right into the crack system (10a/b). Climb up and left, joining Hair City for the remainder of the pitch. Belay from the bolts at the top of the huge pillar.
Either rap from here or continue with one of three options: P3 of West Buttress (5.7), P2 of Hair City (5.9), or the actual continuation of the West Face:
P2- Climb the corner/roof up and right of the belay (5.8). Continue upwards (easy 5th) to the top of the Bastille.
P1- Climb the very thin crack (11a- one move) to a good ledge. One can avoid the thin crack by starting in from the right and traversing left to the ledge above the thin crack. Climb the crack and flake system past two pitons (the first of which is badly bent) to a bulge. Clip the pin above the bulge and make a funky face move out left, then move back right into the crack system (10a/b). Climb up and left, joining Hair City for the remainder of the pitch. Belay from the bolts at the top of the huge pillar.
Either rap from here or continue with one of three options: P3 of West Buttress (5.7), P2 of Hair City (5.9), or the actual continuation of the West Face:
P2- Climb the corner/roof up and right of the belay (5.8). Continue upwards (easy 5th) to the top of the Bastille.
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